I get

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Apache/1.3.37 Server at www.petewelsh-photography.co.uk Port 80

If it is fungus, and it does look like it, don't get it anywhere near your other lenses. It is contagious.

If the fungus is inside the rear element it's probably part of an element group and can't be cleaned cost effectively as the groups are often glued together.

I tried it again, same machine but with camera attached. Same result, PC crashed when top left button pressed. I guess I'll try it on a XPSP2 laptop then.

I don't think any of this is of much help to the OP who has a Mac.

BTW: P106 of the K20D (PDF) manual might be useful too. download it from www.pentaximaging.com

This and this and this might help.

I just tried the Russian programme, without camera attached. I pressed the top left button, and my PC (WinXP Pro SP3) crashed.

Kodak Brownie, Zenit E, Praktica LTL5, Petri 7 Rangefinder (I still have it and it still works - totally mechanical, not a battery to be found), Pentax Super-A, Pentax *istD, Pentax K10D. Pentax K20D hopefully to be added to my list shortly.

The Canon-A1 spec influenced my decision to buy the Super-A, which was similar in capabilities but a Pentax, back in the 80's. The Canon was a well respected and very capapble tool in it's time but I'm not sure it had TTL flash, the Pentax Super-A did.

I also used some Gandolfi 10x8 monorail sheet film cameras at college. Beautiful pieces of furniture, let alone a superb camera.

You mean like this ? It seems our hosts advertise full RRP for their goods. I wonder if they actually sell any at those prices. I'm sure there must be an incentive discount somewhere.

In that case, it's broke mate.

If you are in UK (update your profile to tell us), try http://www.harrowtechnical.co.uk and/or http://www.asahiphoto.co.uk . Asahi photo claim to be able to repair any lens ever made by Pentax and guarantee it for a further 12 months.

In my (and others) opinion it's a very fine lens and I think it's well worth getting it repaired.

I've discovered that there is a B9180GP version which includes an HP Colorimeter for screen calibration. Other than that, I can't add anything.

We were talking about this printer earlier on the phone and I think I would be put off by HP's recommendation of leaving it powered on 24x7. I don't do enough printing to justify the expense of the printer in the first place, plus the added cost of power in an age where we are encouraged to save energy.

There is a cheaper model, the HP Photosmart Pro B8850, that uses the same print head and ink mechanism but has a sleep mode. It consumes only 1 watt and 'wakes' itself to do it's essential maintenance (ink stirring mostly). The B9180 consumes 10 watts in standby but the cheaper model has less media capability in that it can't print on card stock and it lacks the front panel display.

Another sharpening method to reduce/eliminate halos is to only sharpen the luminocity channel. For that you need to change the Image Mode to "Lab Color", select the luminocity channel and apply unsharp mask to your needs. Then change the Image mode back to RGB. Job done, no halos. Halos affect the colour channels, if you don't sharpen them, you get no halos.

Matt will correct any inaccuracies in my perception of the procedure, I'm sure.