Oh well, in that case, my preferred wired trigger has a built in timer and has the name Aputure (yes, I spelled it right) on the front. Similar to this one. I also noticed that they do a wireless one as well, here.

Arctic Butterfly from Visible Dust gets rid of any dust that my Giottos Rocket blower leaves behind.

But it isn't wireless Dan.

Only you can answer that question. It very much depends on whether an upgrade is going to provide any benefit to you and/or your photography.

The problem you'll have after upgrading to a K20D say, is that you'll probably not use your remaining DS very much afterwards. The K10/20D bodies are significantly larger than your DS so size could be an issue.

Sell it sooner rather than later. Just don't expect too much for it.

I don't know the technical reasons for your experience, but what I do know is that Infrared light is not normally visible to the human eye. Our visible light falls between the 300Nm and 750Nm wavelengths and IR occurs between 750Nm and 1mm.

Your K200D therefore is showing a closer approximation to human vision than your other cameras which must be recording the IR portion of what they 'see' as visible light.

Correct, it has. It's possibly still available from some sources though.

Simple answer, they both do, but the one in the K200D filters out more of the IR end of the spectrum.

I think your K110D is a 6Mp camera, the same as the *istD, and the K200D is 10Mp, which is the same as the K10D.

For that reason, I have kept my *istD for the odd IR excursion. It's also possible to have this filter replaced entirely with plain glass making it even better for IR photography, and near useless for anything else.

EDIT: Matt can type faster than I can .

1: Use a decent external firewalled router for internet access. Zone Alarm and the like consume CPU processing power. Have a look at www.netgear.co.uk for what suits you. I use a DGFV338.
2: Use AVG Free for anti-virus and keep it updated.
3:If you don't recognise the sender of an email, delete it, don't read it.
4: Enable a pop-up blocker in your choice of web browser.
5: Run Windows Update regularly to keep your PC up to date with security patches (no moans from Mac users please).
6: Use Driver Detective or similar to ensure your device drivers are up to date.
7: Use Microsoft's Windows Defender for anti-spy/malware.
8: Run Spybot Search & Destroy periodically.

Check your "c:/Windows/system32/drivers/etc/hosts" file (change forward slash to backslash) for odd entries. The default file (which rarely needs changing) looks like:-

# Copyright (c) 1993-1999 Microsoft Corp.
#
# This is a sample HOSTS file used by Microsoft TCP/IP for Windows.
#
# This file contains the mappings of IP addresses to host names. Each
# entry should be kept on an individual line. The IP address should
# be placed in the first column followed by the corresponding host name.
# The IP address and the host name should be separated by at least one
# space.
#
# Additionally, comments (such as these) may be inserted on individual
# lines or following the machine name denoted by a '#' symbol.
#
# For example:
#
# 102.54.94.97 rhino.acme.com # source server
# 38.25.63.10 x.acme.com # x client host

127.0.0.1 localhost

The only filters I use are polarizers and ND grads, none for 'protection'. If I protect my lenses at all it's through careful handling and mandatory use of the lens hood.

My argument against fitting a 'protective' filter is simple. Why spend several hundred pounds on a lens which has very expensive coatings to maximise light transmission, minimise reflections, handle colour correction etc. . . . , then attach a relatively cheap piece of glass to it.

If some mishap occurs that causes a 'protective' filter to break whilst it is on a lens, imagine the damage that can be caused to your lens by flying glass.