I like number 2 although I think there is a bit of her bra showing on the right, and maybe on the left as well which detracts from it a bit. If it was intentional, it hasn't worked, not for me anyway.

Number one has your model squinting and her hair cuts right across her right eye.

A criticism of both images is that there is no detail in her clothing and it looks very flat (in a photographic sense).

She looks a curvy girl, but you haven't shown it apart from the cleavage in #2. If you look at the her right side of her body (left side of the image) in 2, her curved lines are almost hidden and blending into her arm.

Good first effort though, well done.

Thanks. I'll have to let the mods decide if this deserves its own sticky.

It's probably worth recapping at this point just to ensure you have your camera set correctly before attempting these adjustments.

First, print these charts and read the author's blog, cut out the first 2 and fold them as shown. Set them on a flat surface.

Your camera needs to be set as follows:-

1: Mounted on a tripod
2: Shake Reduction turned off
3: Select 2 second timer mode (mirror lockup)
4: Select centre spot focus point
5: Set Focus mode switch to AF-S
6: Set Exposure mode switch to Av
7: Adjust the height of the camera and lens so that the centre of the lens is the same height as the centreline of the chart(s).
8: Level the camera as best you can.

Finally, position the chart such that it's front face is parallel (horizontally) with the sensor plane of your camera.
Align the centre of your viewfinder with the centre of the chart. Physically move or adjust the tripod to maintain the camera level.

Now try again with your tests. Use a cable release and before pressing the shutter release to focus, set the lens's focus barrel at infinity.
Repeat this infinity to focus step three times taking a shot each time.
Now take three more shots but setting the lens's focus barrel to minimum focus before each shot.

At this point you need to stop and check each of the six images and ensure that each of them has focussed to the same point, even if it is the wrong point. If not, there's a problem. It is quite possible that due to manufacturing tolerances, there may be a slight difference between the focussing point of the first 3 compared to the second 3 images. That's normal, but if it's a large difference, there's a problem.

Assess how much adjustment you might need, set it, or just try an adjustment, and repeat by taking 6 more images in the same way. Repeat these exposeure and adjustment steps until the focussing is as you would like it, or as best as you can get it. Once adjusted, take some 'real world' shots to verify the setting.

On the K20D, these steps need to be repeated for each lens (up to 20) if you find they give different results. You can apply one setting for all lenses if that's appropriate. I don't know if these adjustments are cumulative, that is, a + 10 adjustment for all lenses and a +10 adjustment for an individual lens might not result in a +20 adjustment.

On the K10D I'm afraid you have only a 'one adjstment for all' option. Some forums claim that you can set 4 lenses individually on the K10D. I can't confirm or refute that.

And don't give up, we'll get to the bottom of it.

If you fill in your location details in your profile there could be a forum member close to you who might be willing to help.

Craig,

Forget that chart, it's much too busy/fussy/noisy at the most critical focus point.

Use these instead. Each of them has exactly one high contrast boundary for focussing, unlike your charts. Chose the one appropriate to the lens you are testing.

For best results they should be printed on card for stiffness. I use Fujifilm photographic card (270gsm).

The charts must be angled at 45 degrees to the focussing plane, and the centreline of the focus target should be level with the centre of your lens otherwise your results are meaningless.

Use a hot shoe mounted spirit level (or some other means) to ensure the camera is level, then adjust the tripod height to match the height of the centreline of the chart.

Check out the authors blog about K20D focus adjustment here.

You could convert them to DNG files using the standalone Adobe Camera RAW programme . PSE will be able to open a DNG file as long as it really isn't corrupt.

If you transferred your images using a card reader, perhaps attach the USBcable to your camera and transfer them that way.

The SMC PENTAX-DA 1:3.5-5.6 18-55mm AL and SMC PENTAX-DA 1:3.5-5.6 18-55mm AL II lenses will produce almost indistinguishable results on the K200D.

The Mk II version allegedly has increased resolving power to better suit the 14.6Mp K20D and later bodies.

On your 10.2Mp body I doubt you'll see any difference.

It's a whole different ball game if you intend to upgrade in the future.

So that was your plan all along then . . .

I'll take it of your hands and I won't even charge you. Oh, can you throw in the air fare?

I hate you, I hate you, I hate you.

I haven't got any family members anywhere close to being as photogenic as yours.

Grumble, moan, moan, grumble, kick the cat . . . if we had one.