Well you've made a good start but your images as posted are very small. You need to figure out how to size them to 800 x 600 pixels and then post the link.

I understand the meaning of your previous post now Robin. Quite often members will offer items for sale here first. If it doesn't sell here it'll usually end up on ebay and the member will post the auction item here as a follow up.

Ignore the viewfinder flash Icon, it will not light solid unless a flash is fitted to the camera. It will flash indicating that flash is required for a good exposure, but that's not the issue.

Concentrate on the reason the flash doesn't fire off-camera with your radio triggers.

I've posed some pretty specific questions above but you haven't answered any of them yet.

Of course I am Stefan but it needs to meet my requirements in a number of areas. In order of importance:-

1: Price is too high at the moment. I'll consider it when it drops to around £750.00
2: It's AF accuracy has to be better than the K20D for me. I'll have to wait for the tests of others to determine if it is.
3: Noise control at high ISO needs to be better than the K20D.

If it fails my expectations in 2 & 3, I'll not buy one, but I expect that it will probably exceed my expectations anyway.

I am more than happy with my K20D at the moment and have thought about replacing my K10D with another K20D. Truth is, the K10D doesn't get used any more so having another K20D would be a waste as I am very much an amateur, not a professional who might need a backup.

Thanks for that Stefan

If the shots you took at -10 and +10 fucus adjustments were blurred but the one at 0 adjustment had at least some of it in focus, surely there is a point between -10 & +10 that is OK, or not?

The shot you've posted for download has the grass at the bottom reasonably in focus but is very noisy because of the ISO 1600 exposure. Can you drop that down a lot to ISO 100 or 200 and repeat?

These adjustments affect only AF accuracy, can you get a sharp image using manual focus?

Before trying, remove the lens from the camera, look through the viewfinder at a bright'ish light source (not the sun) and adjust your viewfinder dioptre to get the viewfinder guides crisp and sharp. Reattach lens and try an MF shot, let's see what that looks like.

If you can't get a well focussed MF shot then you are on a hiding to nothing where AF is concerned.

PS: It would have been better to continue this issue in your original topic. We now have 4 to look at and mentally amalgamate the posts. Please don't start any more topics relating to this issue, my head hurts

Procedure 1: Mount the flash on the camera and set it up to take a flash shot using Manual exposure mode. Press the shutter.

Q1: Does the flash fire.? It should.

If it doesn't you have a faulty camera or flash or one or both is not setup correctly for manual exposure.

Assuming it does,

Procedure 2: Without changing camera settings, fit the cactus Tx to the camera, fit the Rx to the flash off-camera, set it up such that a press of the test button on the Cactus Tx causes the flash to fire.
Now press the shutter.

Q2: Does the flash fire? It should.

If it does not fire then I suspect you have either a faulty Cactus Tx or there is a connection issue between the Cactus Tx and the hot shoe. Is it pushed fully onto the shoe?

Jeanette,

The composition of your image is just about perfect. I can't see enough detail from the small image but may I voice my observations based on your EXIF info.

1: There's no hard and fast rule about what aperture to use except that f5.8 will produce a narrow depth of field (DOF). My preference for this type of shot would be as narrow an aperture as I could get away with and keep the background nicely out of focus. I tend to use f11, f16, and f22 mostly which would show more of the subject in focus.

2:You seem to have EV comp. set to -0.5 and it's quite well documented that Pentex DSLR's tend towards underexposure already. If any EV comp. is needed it's likely to be +ve, not -ve.

3:This image looks as if it was shot in good light so maybe ISO 800 was a bit too fast. If you can get the effect you are after with a lower ISO, I would use it as the image will need less noise processing afterwards.

4:Adjusting all those variables as I have suggested will lower your max available shutter speed but I think you would have been just as pleased with the result if it had been taken at 1/500th sec.

These are my observations, they are not criticisms. Well done, keep 'em coming, we'll turn you into a macro freak yet .

Didn't know that, thanks.

Here's another one.