This is an Argiope Lobata (Loabed Argiope) spider. Female I think. She's made her home in our garden for the last few weeks having spun her web between our fence and our Yuca, so I thought it was about time I took some photo's of her. She's approximately 5-6 cms front to back, side to side, including her legs.

K5 + grip + Sigma EX DG 180mm Macro + AF160FC flash . . . and a torch.

The torch was not strictly necessary because the modelling lights of the flash cast enough light for focussing, until the batteries failed.

# 1



# 2



# 3



#4



#5

Thanks for the link. I had already checked and tried to download a moanul. I got the manual for the AF200SA instead.

Nevertheless, could I see a photo of the back of the flash please. Because, if I am to buy a used item, I want to see photos of that item to satisfy myself that it is on an acceptable quality.[/b]

I use Av for most of my photography. When the situation dictates, or when experimenting, I use all except the 'green' P&S mode.

I have both lenses and use the 60-250mm much more than the 50-135mm.

If you are shooting in low light conditions, the 50-135mm is the better choice, but for an all-rounder tele-zoom, the 60-250mm is far more useful.

The one stop max aperture difference between them is more than compensated for by the high ISO capabilities of the modern Pentax DSLR's.

The only real negative point I would have to mention is that any Pentax DSLR body, with a grip and full compliment of batteries, and a 60-250mm attached is a heavy lump of kit to hang around your neck all day.

My most used lenses are the DA*16-50mm, and the DA* 60-250mm. To date, I've not missed the 10mm gap between them. I can usually get a little closer, or a little further away, depending on which lens I have mounted on the cacmera at the time.

I think Stefan slips in these tidbits of misinformation to test us . . . and to keep his daily posting rate up.

He'll need to post a correction now, so that'll clock up another post.

Could I see a photo of the back of the flash please. I want to know if it has manual settings IE: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16th output power adjustment.

Why?

If you read through this tutorial that Stefan posted earlier, you'll have a better understanding of how to make a correct exposure using the combination of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. These are the only settings that affect the exposure.

Too slow a shutter speed, you'll get motion blur. Panning withthe subject can reduce this to some extent.

Too fast a shutter speed, and you'll freeze everything, sometimes resulting in an artificial look to the image.

Too wide an aperture (a small number like f2. results in shallow depth of field (DOF), meaning that only a small part is in focus.

With too small an aperture, DOF may be OK, but you'll have to shorten the shutter speed, or increase the ISO to compensate.

The slower the ISO you can get away with the better. This will produce the least noisy/grainy images. But sometimes, you just have to increase it and suffer the noise, or deal with it in post processing.

Absolutely not Stefan. Since you joined, you have averaged 8.819371728 posts per day, every day, for 1146 days.

Before your 'quiet' period a month or so ago, your average daily postings were >10.

The following is a table of the top 5 posters. Bad formatting is due to some stupid code used on this site. I'm sure you'll work it out.

Your task is to work out on what date your post count will equal John Rileys.


Member # Days # Posts Avg posts / day
John Riley 3445 12834 3.725399129
Anvh 1146 10107 8.819371728
Mike_P 1247 7442 5.967923015
George Lazarette 2779 7330 2.637639439
Mannesty 2379 6127 2.575451871

My post was for the benefit of others who may want to sell.

I'm not selling mine. Sorry.