Terry wrote: Sometimes I have a feeling that its "hit and miss" with this lens, but I have come to think it is down to the photographer more than the lens. When I "hit" it seems to hit well.

I fully agree Terry.

I've stopped expecting it to be infallable as a P&S lens, with the camera on auto and the lens on AF. The aperture is generally too large and the focus too soft.

I've learned to shoot in AV f8 and focus manually when I can. My results are almost 100% now, and I've never had a quibble with the colours - really like them.

I also like the 18 - 55 mm range for walk-about, and it's LIGHT!

I'm not starting a fan club for it, but for the price I feel it does an admirable job.

Drew,

Without going to extremes, yes, the flash helps freeze action outdoors too.
We're talking about very powerful flashes with special concentrating reflector attachments in some cases.
My evil Nikon toting brother-in-law uses long range, concentrated flash when shooting song birds, humming birds (freezes their wings) etc.
I'm not saying capturing eagles in flight 50 meters away, nor are you talking about catching a baby in flight 50 meters away.

Peter, and Dr. Mhuni

Mia Culpa - I'm the guy who couldn't remember the correct name

I thought of lens hood - but that seemed to describe an undesirable goon who mugs you for your camera gear.

You're right of course, Peter - as always

Appologies

CONGRATS, El Dingo!!!!!

A VERY Happy B'Day!

Point taken Mike, and I'll certainly defer to the good doctor's decision here.

However, I think I'd be more worried about driven sand and dust getting INSIDE the lens than abrading the tough SMC coating of the main element. I may be wrong, but I'd guess very little dust gets inside the lens body via the front element seal - more likely through the zoom and focusing collars and rings. Maybe this is where the weather sealing on the newer lenses is a big plus?

As for dust on the front element, I'd use a blower. I'll bet the coatings on the lenses are way harder than the coatings on even the most expensive filters.

How about our other desert dwellers?

Hi Drew,

Use a flash.

It will freeze motion and you don't really need a super fast lens - though that would be the ideal.

A flash only provides light in the thousanths of a second, and you'd probably be shooting at f8 or smaller apertures ensuring more Depth of Field.

If your camera has a built in flash - start with that.

Cheers

Terry,

What a great tribute to the often maligned MK1 KIT lens!

I tend to keep mine at f8 as well.

Well done!

Please don't forget rigid sun shades.

If you are looking for lens protection, these should be a serious consideration - plus they benefit by helping to prevent flare.

I'm convinced that they also improve metering, though I can't prove it.

I've just counted, and I own 26 filters - from B&W, Pentax and Hoya Pro - UV, Warming, Neutral Grey, Sunlight, Blue, and of course, many polarizers. With digital cameras, I find the benefits of UV, Sunlight and Blue unnecessary. With ultra wide lenses, polarizers can be very tricky.

I just looked in my camera bag and I only carry a high quality polarizer and ND now.

But ALL my lenses have sun shades.

Just my humble opinion.

Terry,

VERY clear and sharp shots!

Do you remember what lens you used?

I'm guessing a zoom with considerable range?

Thanks

Mr. Gartmore is absolutely correct.

All the crank wind film cameras have the counter reset located there.

Enjoy your MX - a fine camera!