Thanks. So you like your fungi dark and threatening...

Steve

Everyone's got to start somewhere... of course, it could be improved by hiking miles carrying an 8x10 camera and heavy tripod, then spending hours in a darkroom with a witches brew of chemicals.

Leaving AA aside, it's an intriguing picture that's growing on me. Well spotted. A darker background might be better, though - no doubt AA would have fixed that in the dark room and we'd all assume it was like that when he took the shot!

Steve

The oyster mushrooms that started growing in early January have sprouted for the third time. This time, instead of tiny 'shrooms, they have grown huge - 10cm or more across. So a photo session was needed, playing around with light, colour, shape, curves, that sort of thing. Here are a few of the results, last one approx 1:1.

K3 + DA*35mm macro (thanks, AndrewA, it's a lovely lens ).

Thoughts and comments welcome as always.

1.



2.



3.



Steve

Got it !! Found it deep in Pentaxforums. It's a workaround, seems usable although not exactly intuitive. I've checked it out for a K3 so hopefully it's OK for a K1 too. The key to it is that screen dimming in live view seems to be a response to the user deliberately underexposing, but not to when the camera can't get a correct exposure. So you trick the camera into underexposing because it can't get a correct exposure, and as a result live view doesn't dim.

Here's how...

1.Set auto-ISO range to a narrow range that covers the ISO you want e.g. you want 100, set range to 100-200 (you'll see why later).
2. Using viewfinder mode (not live view) and M or Av with the ISO that you want, determine aperture and shutter speed that together give a correctly exposed image. Remember those values. (Note: you don't need to look through the viewfinder and get mucky knees for this, but do cover the viewfinder to stop direct light entering.)
3. Switch to TAv mode. (Yes, that really is TAv)
4. Set aperture and shutter speed to those you've remembered from step 2. ISO will be automatically set to the ISO you want.
5. Switch to live view. The image is bright as it's correctly exposed.
6. (This is the clever bit...) Change aperture and shutter speed to what you want. If you want values that would underexpose at the ISO you want, the camera will try to increase ISO to compensate, but can't do it because of the narrow range you set in step 1. There will be an 'ISO out of range' warning (flashing number on K3, might be different on other cameras). But THE BRIGHTNESS OF THE IMAGE DOES NOT CHANGE.
7. Focus.
8. Ensure flash settings are to your liking.
9. Press shutter button to take picture. ISO will be in the range set in step 1, it might not be exactly what you want but will be close. Ambient light will be underexposed because ISO isn't high enough for correct exposure with ambient light, flash will provide the light for correct exposure.

I've just taken a flash picture on a K3 like this, it is correctly exposed. Turnng flash off gives huge underexposure. Live view was normal brightness, Is that what want?

I still prefer a right angle finder and mucky knees, though. But that could be because the K3 doesn't have an articulated screen.

Steve
PS: At last I've found a use for TAv mode!

A wild thought - does turning monitor brightness to maximum help? Or is it still too dim?

Steve

Mine is a Seagull, I wouldn't be surprised if all the cheap ones of Chinese origin are just rebadged versions of the same things. If you can find a genuine Pentax in decent condition that fits your camera it would be worth going for. My Seagull is plastic and isn't as robust as a genuine Pentax version would be. Perfectly usable, not delicate, but needs treating with respect. Its connection to the camera is OK but is simply plastic sliding onto plastic and would be the bit that breaks first. However, having said that, I've had mine for about 10 years and no damage (so far...).

Steve

Sounds like you need a right-angle finder. I've used one for years (on K20D then K3) and wouldn't be without it. It isn't the answer to everything, there are still some positions where you wish you had a 45 degree finder or infinitely flexible back and neck, but it's a very useful thing to have. £39.95 from SRB Photographic or cheaper from Amazon.

Steve

It works for me. But then I've always liked impressionism in both music and art, which I know isn't everyone's cup of tea.

If this is "just a bit of fun", I'm looking forward to seeing some serious art with this lens and tubes.

Steve

Apologies accepted!

Wessex Photo once managed what I thought would be impossible - getting reps from both Pentax and Nikon in a small shop at the same time, both demonstrating their kit. The reps seemed to get on very well with each other. And it's the only time I've seen and handled a 645 (D, I think).

Steve

How dare you, sir! Mifsuds is in the county of Devon, not Dorset. Such confusion is considered heresy round here!

My local photographic shop is Wessex Photo (not to be confused with Wex Photo Video which is an entirely different company). Five branches in Dorset, minimal web presence. The result of mergers and closures over many years. It does a steady trade in photo frames, prints, accessories, compact cameras etc. Not much stock of higher end kit but they can get anything and might price-match if you talk nicely to them. Which I do, because I knew the manager of the local shop when he was a young kid - and his mum and dad and aunty (must have been 40 years ago - eeek! :shock.

Steve