I'd just like a 16-45

It will certainly do that, modern AF cameras are so sophisticated and reliable under all but the most extreme conditions, that when set to auto they are essentially 'point and shoot'.

A manual focus camera with fairly basic metering will force you to slow down and think about each and every shot.
You'll have many disappointing results but you'll learn something from every one of them (try to remember what settings you chose and what you were trying to achieve) and you'll get a great buzz from the ones that work.

One of the most undervalued accessories, in my opinion, is the owners manual. Not only will it familiarise you with the camera's controls and functions but also guide you toward the use of basic techniques.

Nothing wrong with screw on close-up lenses, they're quick and as convenient as changing a filter and you don't lose any lens functionality.

There's no reason to suppose that the close-up lenses (by top manufacturers) are of a lower quality than the lens they're being fitted to and it is possible to achieve excellent results.

As you gain experience, you'll want to move up to more expensive hardware but close-up lenses are an ideal way to start

If it's any consolation, aj, I knew exactly what it was and liked it straight away
Your other pics are good too although the blue grass doesn't do a great deal for me but I have to agree that your simple approach really does work.
I sometimes think that we're too analytical, great images are often thought provoking and demand close inspection but the most pleasing are usually the ones that just 'look right' and don't require too much effort of the viewer.

Now we're all intrigued

....and I was beginning to think it was all over between us!!!!!




....guess I've got a sick sense of humour too

The T-mount adapter that I was referring to screws onto some lenses (eg. Centon 500mm mirror) and some accesories such as slide zoom copiers.

It's actually not a bad idea, much like Tamron's Adaptall system, because they only need to produce one version of the lens and the owner then buys a mount in the fitting he/she (must be PC) needs.

I know the T adapter is available in K mount but I seem to remember KA or KAF versions being advertised!!

Even if I'm right, it's no use to you if your lens doesn't use the T adapter - I just thought it might

No it wont I'm afraid, the MZ30 requires lenses with an A setting on the aperture ring. I don't think there's any way to get around that but the lens will work OK on the MZ3.
It should also be fine on the DL2 but you may have to select "enable aperture ring" - or words to that effect, in one of the custom functions (I don't have access to my DL manual at the moment, so I can't be 100% certain).

Is your lens a fixed mount or does it use a T-mount adapter?
I could be completely wrong but I think it might be possible to get a T-mount with an aperture lever/contact, although I've no idea how it would couple with your mirror lens to indicate F8 ......I bet I'm thinking of something else!

I'm afraid this is quite common with the Penta-mirror cameras.

I can live with specks of dust but I just couldn't bear what looked like an eyelash in my DL.
It was much smaller than the average eyelash but it was so distracting that I had to get rid of it. The focusing screen can be removed by releasing the surrounding metal frame (it hinges down toward the mirror) but it's an extremely tricky job and no matter how clean the screen looks to the naked eye, there'll almost certainly be a speck or two left when you refit it. Worse still, like me, you could easily scratch or mark the screen (or mirror) and end up in a worse situation than before you started.

I really wouldn't recommend that you try it but if you do, you have to prise the frame away from the top of 'film' chamber with a pair of tweezers or the point of a biro. You'll notice a small notch in the frame for a suitable tool to fit into but anything small enough and strong enough to do the job will also be hard enough and sharp enough to do some serious damage - please be warned!

The screen itself is loosely placed on this frame and will fall out onto the floor, if you're not careful - so please work over a clean, soft surface and use a pair of focusing screen tweezers to hold the screen correctly by its tab.

Once the screen is lowered, the Penta-mirror housing is completely open - so fit the body cap or lens immediately to prevent further dust particles getting inside, that will later end up falling onto your freshly cleaned screen!

Refitting the screen is essentially the reverse procedure to removal but bear in mind that the screen is loose and can move about as you raise the frame back into place - again it's tricky!

You may be better at this sort of thing than me but please don't attempt it unless you feel that you really have to

I would recommend the Tamron SP500mm mirror lens because it's a good performer and you should be able to pick up a nice one (hopefully in it's case c/w filter set) for £50-£70 on eBay.
It's a manual focus adaptall2 lens, so all you need is a PK/PKA adaptall mount for it - don't be put off if it's advertised as Nikon or Canon etc!
Expect to pay £20 ish for a seperate mount.....but you might be lucky and pick one up for a fiver and it's even worth buying another lens with the mount you need!

To add even more pulling power, you could look for the SP 2x Flat-field converter. They're excellent and fit directly onto the lens so you only need to fit the adapter between the camera body and the converter.