A RAW file is any file format that stores image data without using lossy compression. The source is unimportant.

My Epson V500 can scan to several formats, including TIFF. This is a RAW file from a scanner and you will have similar post-processing options as available from RAW such as PEF from a DSLR.

Your DSLR has very fine shims between the focusing screen and the plastic body. These are for very finely adjusting the distance of the screen from the lens mount to make sure it's exactly aligned with the sensor for correct focus. There is no guarantee that the new screen will focus with the existing shims, especially as it will be much more sensible to small differences, which is what allows it to provide accurate focusing. Callibration involves adding or removing shims to get the distance exactly correct.

I think I'm in the minority having had to do this, though.

This could be anything from the next APS-C DSLR to the 645D mkII or it could be a limited edition 31mm limited in lurid green.....

I'm a big fan of the Katzeye but I don't have focus-peaking or even live-view on my K200D. I find the KE essential for using my many manual lenses.

Bear in mind that a new KE screen may need to be calibrated - I had to buy and install viewfinder shims with mine to make it 100% accurate, and that's not a simple task. And at the end of the day the viewfinder is still half the size of that on an MX or ME Super, but it's a vast improvement.

I understand that from the K7 onwards, this was improved. My K200D suffers from the same problem. I usually meter with the green button and then decrease the shutter speed by around 2/3 of a stop to get a good exposure. Of course, it depends on the situation and the aperture used.

Sounds like a great trip. I'd get a K30 again, it's the same as the newer K50 but can be bought for less. Get the AA adapter and take some Lithiums to make sure you always have power (the cold saps battery power, especially from rechargeables).

As for lenses, you could get the WR 18-55 and 50-200 quite cheaply, though for extra money the 18-135 will save a lot of lens changing, but will leave you without a long tele option. I'd be very tempted to get a 55-300, I understand it's optically superior to the 50-200 but it is bigger and heavier, and there's no WR version.

Please do NOT put protective filters on your lenses, you'll notice the degradation of image quality afterwards and you'll kick yourself. Just use lens hoods, wipe down carefully when needed and take care. A bag/backpack with a weather cover will help a lot.

I have exactly the same issue, I even have the same flash!

I haven't tried it out yet, but the manual for that flash can be found here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/vivitar_flashes/550fd-cr.pdf

My understanding of how it works is this. There are two auto modes which depend on the distance to the subject, and to a lesser degree, the aperture you want to use. In these auto modes the exposure is controlled by the flash, which has a sensor on the front to detect when enough light has been provided. Since the sensor is still forward-facing, bouncing should not make any difference.

There is also a TTL mode in which exposure is controlled by the camera, but I'm not sure which models will work with this.

So that's the theory as I understand it. I'd like to test it on my K200D, but as mentioned above, the trigger voltage is a worry and I have no way of testing this. To my knowledge though, the only flashes that cause problems are the ones that have a very high trigger voltage, 100V or more.

If you do try it out on either digital or film, I'd appreciate it if you could let us know how you got on.

Most of them are ok, but certainly nothing exceptional or of a very high standard. I see much better portraits every day browsing flickr.

The best one is number 8, the three boys. It's the only one that looks like it tells a story.

Another Pentax forums member in Madrid! Unfortunately I don't have €900 for a lens... but good luck with the sale.