Anglais s'il vous plait. Merci.

He has a neat, precise approach to the photography and should feel encouraged to carry on and see where it leads him.

I'm not sure if at 11 he can open an ePHOTOzine account, perhaps he can with parental approval. That would be a good way to get feedback from a large number of people. If you had an account you could post his pictures on it with a suitable description perhaps.

Let's be encouraging to an 11 year old though, but you could buy him a Pentax camera then he can join in properly. :

It may depend very much on the sort of shots you take and it's quite likely that the Premium JPEG shots I made will have had some processing in camera to prevent the moire effect, of which I didn't see any evidence.

In some ways the RAW shots may have increased the amount of work to do.

I'll pop this into General Digital Photography, which is the area for image manipulation queries.

To aid in answering the question, are you using Photoshop or some other program to edit your shots?

I'm no expert at wildlife, but have been practising with bird photography and various lenses.

Where focusing is difficult I would maybe focus on the distance involved, perhaps on a tree or whatever, and then just hold that point and capture the bird at the same distance. Or maybe use manual focusing - again it needs practice but photographers managed very well for a long time.

I leave the focusing on centre spot and work with practising with that. It gets better as we go and although there's no chance every shot will be a winner they are generally getting better. I practise wih the equipment I've got and don't fret about the equipment I haven't got.

With any ultra-wide lens, getting close enough is the usual problem, but you seem to be doing just fine.

Are you going to buy one?

The flash white balance issue may be related to what you have in the hotshoe. Check the menu setting that determines what white balance setting defaults to when a flash unit is mounted.

You didn't mention any of the flashgun details in the OP, when asking for solutions it's really important to mention everything.

As regards the screen, just adjust it to suit. The screens on cameras only give an approximation of the final result anyway, although they can be retty close most of the time.

Here are some test shots that show close up lenses can be useful as simple devices for macro photography.

Pentax 100mm D-FA Macro at f/16 shows good sharpness across the frame:


At f/2.8 not so suitable for flat subjects:


Add the CU lens and at f/16 we still get good sharpness across the frame:


At f/2.8 the CU lens is not suitable, but might be useful for soft focus effects on 3D subjects:

That's enough now please gentlemen....no slanging matches on Pentax User.

Many thanks in anticipation of an end to hostilities.