If you were photographing a mid-grey wall then everything would be neatly displayed on the histogram, but the real world is not like that....

Over-exposure on a DSLR is about the last thing we need if we want to avoid totally blown out highlights. Under-exposure is preferable and can be adjusted in Photoshop (within reason).

If you are having exposure problems, there are lots of good books that cover the subject, and a thorough understanding is very helpful.

You could test the accuracy of your meter in a fairly accurate way by using the "Sunny 16" rule. On a bright, full daylight day a fully illuminated subject should record an exposure of f16 at the reciprocal of the ISO speed. So at 200 ISO that would be f16 at 1/200 sec. I know this isn't ultra-accurate, but it is surprisingly spot on much of the time and it might help you to ascertain if you do have a significant exposure error.

I wonder if the *istDS and the D70 were set to the same ISO speed?

It's a complex subject, so I hope all that was helpful rather than confusing!

If that makes the pictures what you want them to be, then that's about right!

But it all depends on the metering method, the exact framing, and there is no guarantee that the picture your friend was taking didn't have a different distribution of tones, or a different metering pattern. To really compare, both cameras would have to be set up in a tightly controlled way.

Then there is the interpretation of the histogram. If the picture was full of dark tones, then it would be correct for the histogram to be shifted into the area of darker tones.

In the end, if you get the results you want then you don't really have a problem.

If you look into the lens during a long exposure, you will be able to see if the lens is stopping down properly.

You might think the DOF lever is not that important, I don't use the facility very much, but if you do want a repair there are specialist Pentax repairers such as Pentax UK Ltd, Harrow Technical and Asahi Photo who I'm sure will give you an idea of cost if you phone them.

Personally I would have it fixed unless it is so expensive that a good second hand camera is a better alternative.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the links, but it was actually the 35mm f1.4 lens I was asking about - it might never have gone into production.

Does anyone know if there was ever a production run of the SMC Pentax-M 35mm f1.4 lens? I have seen references to this lens from various sources but have never seen it included in any Pentax info.

Any information would be much appreciated!

The really easy answer is to get a card reader.

This will connect to a USB input on your computer. You just take the card out of the camera, insert it into the card reader and then you can access the pictures directly from the card.

If you have more than one camera use a multi=card reader, or plug in different readers as necessary if they take different types of card.

It will also avoid the possibility of corruption of files if the power supply of a camera failed during transfer.

Something is clearly amiss - perhaps someone has replaced the focusing screen and it isn't clicked properly into place, perhaps the mirror is out of alignment, maybe something else. But if simple checks don't reveal an obvious cause, I would send the camera for overhaul.

The LX is a very classy camera, and if it's in good condition I'm sure it will be worth fixing.

If you stick to SMC Pentax-FA or -F autofocus lenses, you will know that they are compatible and that you are getting the best quality.

Some zooms will go down to a magnification ratio of 1:4 which is 1/4 life size, not bad at all. A proper Macro lens will be a fixed focal length but will go down to 1:2 and maybe even 1:1 Quality of such a Macro will be exemplary!

In manual focus lenses, if you stick to SMC Pentax-A series lenses, again you will have compatibility and there will be no problem with quality.

There are lots of good lenses on eBay of these types, just be careful about the sellers' feedback, the description given and look closely at any photos. And ask questions if you need more info....

I can only quote the following from the latest McKeowan's guide:

"Carena Zoomex - 1962. 8mm spool camera. Electric eye, manual or aoto exposure control. Angenieux f1.8 7.5-35mm lens. Spring motor wound by turning grip. Reflex viewing. $20-30"

Looking at the pictures, adapting camera lenses to this does not look a likely prospect. However, I am not an expert on this and perhaps if you phoned one of the classic camera repairers they might be able to offer some advice?