I suggest that the camera is set to centre-spot only focusing, otherwise madness ensues as the camera tries to guess which focusing point to use. Then you can focus, hold with a half pressure and recompose before taking the shot.

I find it works most of the time. If it doesn't, try focusing on something else at the same distance, hold and recompose as before.

There are some subjects though that will defeat AF, and MF will will be the best solution. Most of my macro work, for example, is done with manual focusing.

Well I tried to order one, actually two at that price, but there's no home delivery option and the reserve and collect revealed that every store i could think of was out of stock.

Under those circumstances, the price is irrelevant!

I've had a close look at our 50-200mm and although the front element is proud of the mount, the finish is perfect. No rough edges at all.

Not peeved at all, just happy that lots of people are posting and the forum is active, lively and informative.

The more the merrier! As for titles, what's in a name?

The A3 is an odd beast that has the first inbuilt motor in a pentax SLR and offers aperture priority and program modes, but no manual setting.

In terms of quality of results, put a good lens on it and it will produce as good results as any other SLR. In terms of facilities it is a little basic but perfectly useable.

Don't lets get tied up in knots! It is a complex issue with various factors having various degrees of effect. Yes, the anti-aliasing filter will have an effect on sharpness and resolution (not the same thing), as will the processing, the lens, and indeed the final software operations performed by the user. In theory, the IR filter will also have an effect, as it removes stray light invisible to the eye but very visible to the CCD and causing, potentially, light scatter.

Interesting how many variables there are, and how different manufacturers decide on a different balance of solutions.

The CCD itself probably has less effect than we think, because it may well be the same CCD in many different makes of camera. Canon of course use CMOS, which has different advantages and disadvantages of its own.

I love the complexity of photography!

I've been arguing a similar point on another forum with a gentleman who was insisting that lens quality had nothing to do with things and a cheap lens was as good as any lens because of the low sensor resolution. He thought the Canon kit lens was as good as anything. This is demonstrably not true and, as you say, lenses and software do make a difference.

I made the prints to prove it, and it confirmed that the 16-45mm lens was well worth the money. Pentax leave the sharpening to the photographer, just as it should be.

This is an age old delemma in itself, but I've reached the conclusion that there's no point biuying good kit if I'm scared to use it. It's insured, I take proper care, but I take the kit I need.

As for flying, if they want my camera gear to go in the hold then I don't fly.

I still use film for Images of England, but when that finishes this year I doubt if I will use much again.

So same problem - will I ever use my fridge full of film?

Probably not, but I will be keeping a film camera just in case. Just think how difficult it would be to replace your MZ-S if you had to...why sell it for peanuts?

Hi Molly, and welcome!

First of all you need to get the images on to the computer. My method is as follows: Use a card reader and insert the camera's SD card in that. Open "My Computer" and select the card, then DCIM, then PENTAX100 which is the folder you want. Open "My Documents" or "My Pictures" or wherever you want the images to be stored.

All you need to do then is "drag and drop" the images from the card from one place (the card) to the other. This does not delete your card, but only copies the files to your hard drive.

Now to open the images you need a program that will do so. If you are using Photoshop Elements (a recent version) or CS2 then you can just open the files. Otherwise you will need to use a RAW converter, and there was one shipped with your camera called PENTAX PHOTO LABORATORY.

Just open the image in one of these programs and then "Save As" as a TIFF so it can then be handled by any regular imaging program. Don't save as a JPEG as this is a compressed format and will lose quality.

Please feel free to ask any further questions as you go along.