Or, best of all, switch off the anti-shake and use a tripod, a very firm tripod.

This assumes that the subject is stationary. For moving subjects a tripod with a ball and socket head can be used, leaving the head free to move. In this way you can pan with a subject but the camera is stabilised to quite a high degree.

We have tested more than one Vivitar 283 and there are clearly different designs that look identical. Some measure 19V and some measure 300V (or in those regions).

Not a problem for 1970s film cameras, but maybe a problem dor modern DSLRs.

It's been covered somewhere already, but 4 weeks or so seems about average.

Why not show us the photo and then we'll tell you!

What you are describing is depth of field.

Depth of focus is the amount of leeway you have when manufacturing a camera - it relates to the placement of the CCD or film plane. Just like depth of field in the subject, at the fil plane there is a certain amount of depth of focus available. The degree of accuracy has to be higher the smaller the format.

This is quite interesting because smaller formats have more depth of field but much smaller depth of focus, so manufacturing standards have to be much higher. This is where the 110 film cartridge failed.

Please start a new topic when you want to post images, otherwise the advice in this one will become lost amongst everything else!

Thanks!

Buy now, it won't last long.

Yes, for the same reason it was always better to have your own darkroom. You can adjust and repeat your prints there and then until you consistently get exactly the results you require. Every time. No more prints back from the lab that are close but not perfect.

Doing the job yourself can give you superior results.

They all have, so why do they need persuading?

We knew that before the thread started!