With Photobucket, you get the img tags already with the copy. Just click on the bottom link under the thumbnail in your Photobucket album and it will show "Copied" in a small yellow box that pops up for a second.

Then come to this site, write your message and at the point you wan the image just click Ctrl+V and you will find the code is pasted into the message pane. You do have to make sure there is a flashing cursor in the message bo before you paste though. If not, just left click in the box and one will appear.

Welcome Jason, you've arrived at the right place!

The SP 500 and 1000 have no self timer. The SP F has a meter that always operates when there is more than 3EV of light, so it always needs a lens cap.

Therefore, I suggest a SP II as the ideal choice.

Hope that helps!

These tests should be done on a proper rig in a laboratory, so we don't know the experimental error either.

The only thing we can know is if our images are sharp or not.

If you go above 800 pixels you will start to spread the forum thread from side to side.

A maximum of 800 will make for easier viewing for more members.

You can't back focus on manual. But the eye isn't accurate enough to judge. The focusing screen has to be in the right position if any of your pictures hope to be sharp - the amount of depth of focus is very small indeed.

The mirror also has to be in the right place.

The AF system could back focus, but that's another matter altogether and is true of all marques.

Ron Spillman ran Club Rollei Magazine.

I think it was called Pentax Club originally and it originated in the 1970s. I'm not sure that there wasn't a previous club to that as well, but I'm not old enough to know about it...

The field of view is different because the APS-C sensor only sees an area of 23.4x15.6mm whereas a 35mm film frame would see 36x24mm. This means the APS-C sensor only sees the centre of the field of view, in other words a reduced field of view.

This is what the 1.5x is all about. The focal length doesn;t change, but a 50mm lens on a K20D gives a field of view that would be given by a 75mm on a film camera. But it doesn't become a 75mm lens just because it's on a DSLR, it is always a 50mm lens.

Don't forget that the human eye has a variable amount of accuracy. Tests done in the 1970s showed that the point of focus varied quite a lot each time a photoapher manually focused a camera.

This might be as accurate as you can hope to get.