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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
This is a Classifieds thread, commentary elsewhere please!

Comment by johnriley posted on Pentax K20D w/ 16-45mm For Sale at 27/01/2010 - 17:00

johnriley
I might as well tell you now that I do nothing and get a perfectly good colour match throughout. There will be plenty along to give the opposite point of view!

I use sRGB settings throughout and the evidence of my own eyes. The colour of my monitor, prints, web images and also the ones printed in PU Magazine all look exactly the same.

It can't be entirely luck because the same is true of our second PC and also the five laptops we use. So I don't try to find a cure for a problem that I don't experience.

Comment by johnriley posted on Monitor calibration at 27/01/2010 - 13:17

johnriley
Place them strategically to add light to a scene. When the main flash fires, they will too. It can add a bit of sophistication to the flat frontal lighting of one flashgun.

Comment by johnriley posted on Slave flash? at 27/01/2010 - 10:22

johnriley
Add Noise is one way to great grain, gaussian monochromatic for me.

Comment by johnriley posted on K-7 now £799!! at 27/01/2010 - 09:12

johnriley
In the 1970s in particular there was a trend of companies buying the rights to old names. They then sold cheap lenses under those names, presumably to make us think they had a pedigree that was actually just not there.

Comment by johnriley posted on New uses for old lenses at 26/01/2010 - 23:56

johnriley
I beg your pardon. For Av to be used with a specific aperture you do indeed need a manual diaphragm lens or accessory. Such as a mirror lens, the *5mm f2.2 Soft or an extension tube.

Comment by johnriley posted on 50mm 1.7 Pentax Asahi Lens at 26/01/2010 - 23:25

johnriley
It's up to you whether or not you want it returning, but Voigtlander is the usual accepted English version. You don't need to be bold, just ask.

Comment by johnriley posted on Voigtlander Ultron/Nokton lenses at 26/01/2010 - 20:02

johnriley
With studio flash, set 1/180 sec and a starting aperture of say f8. Adjust after some test shots and examining the histogram. After that, the settings do not need to change.

Still use the green button to stop down, but ignore the meter reading.

Later, if you use the flash a lot, it will be easier to do away with the synch cable by buying an Infra Red trigger.

Comment by johnriley posted on 50mm 1.7 Pentax Asahi Lens at 26/01/2010 - 18:59

johnriley
In AF mode a manual lens will only work when the green hexagon in the viewfinder shows steady, indicating that the camera knows it's in focus. If you want to release the shutter regardless, then set the camera to MF. This alone could have caused your non-release problem.

Try in Av setting an aperture, pointing the camera at your subject and then pressing the green button so the lens stops down. Then release the shutter. See what happens, and you might be OK from now on.

If you still have a problem then we'll try to find out by elimination!

Comment by johnriley posted on 50mm 1.7 Pentax Asahi Lens at 26/01/2010 - 18:09

johnriley
You could use a polariser to eliminate relections from the surfaces of the glass.

Comment by johnriley posted on stuck! at 26/01/2010 - 17:27

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