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johnriley

Joined: 19th March 2002

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johnriley
You probably already know the answer if you think about it, because you know the sort of photography you want to do. You also know what the current limitations of your current line up of lenses are.

Is the Sigma 105mm a macro lens? If not, do you need a macro lens?

Do you need an ultrawide - if so the DA 12-24mm cries out to be on the list.

Do you crave low light reportage and need a fast 50/55mm?

Or perhaps an incredible travelling experience that will take you somewhere to make some great images with what you have already?

Comment by johnriley posted on I've just found out what my bonus is. I need spending ideas! at 30/03/2010 - 09:31

johnriley
I was out yesterday in the rain with the 18-55mm and 50-200mm WR lenses. Perfect, I was just out in the rain and didn't bother about the came and lenses getting wet. Everything seems unscathed, although I did let bag and kit air thoroughly on returning.

This is pretty good stuff because there are lots of fine images to be found in bad weather. Rain no longer stops play.

Comment by johnriley posted on Sacrifice a lens or buy a WR? at 30/03/2010 - 09:24

johnriley
There will be a K mount adapter soon for the NX.

Comment by johnriley posted on Samsung 50-200mm with Optical Stabilisation at 29/03/2010 - 22:20

johnriley
I have heard of this happening and I think it may well be due to a message being deleted before it has been read.

Comment by johnriley posted on PM's not working? at 29/03/2010 - 22:13

johnriley
If you want to maintain maximum quality then buy the best you can afford. Not all filters are made to the same standards.

The most common problem with polarisers is a colour shift and expensive ones will minimise that.

Having said that, sometimes end of line or bulk purchase bargains can change the usual maxim that you get what you pay for.

Comment by johnriley posted on Polarised filters at 28/03/2010 - 12:35

johnriley
The simplest and arguably best solution is the SMC Pentax-DA 55-300mm, or the lighter made but optically identical DAL version. These are excellent performers but not overly expensive.

Modern zooms designed for digital cameras will pereform better than many film-era lenses, but don't dismiss the latter as there are plenty of lenses that are up to it. The Pentax AF lenses in general will perform best, but there are good examples from other manufacturers such as Tokina, Tamron and Sigma. Personally I rank them in that order.

Don't forget that the dgigital lenses will be generally smaller, lighter, better performers and focus closer than their film counterparts.

Comment by johnriley posted on K20 D - Best Zoom lens to 300mm at 28/03/2010 - 10:34

johnriley
We have ADAPS sweatshirts, soon to be extended to other items. There are plenty of companies that will make these things for you.

Pentax at one time listed all sorts of promotional items and we have an umbrella, a rather splendid calculator, some mugs and probably other items scattered around.

Comment by johnriley posted on baseball cap at 27/03/2010 - 12:00

johnriley
You don't have to give up there. Visit your local Citizen's Advice Bureau and they will be able to tell you how to proceed. You should get an amicable resolution to this.

Comment by johnriley posted on smc DA* 16-50mm Focus Issue at 27/03/2010 - 10:26

johnriley
In the UK there is the possibility of claiming for faulty goods up to six years.

Should a lens last 6 years? I would expect it to last a lot longer than that.

However, in the first instance that 2 year Pro Dealer Warranty looks like the first step.

Comment by johnriley posted on smc DA* 16-50mm Focus Issue at 27/03/2010 - 10:02

johnriley
bretbysteve wrote:
"That's because you only need them with JPEG, every PP you do and resave your image you've quality loss"

This is an often quoted downside of JPEG...however can you actually see the so-called quality loss?

Suggest you read the JPEG v RAW article by Lee Frost in the March 2010 copy of Black + White photography magazine...it dispels some JPEG/RAW myths.

cheers..
The quality loss only occurs if you continually resave a JPEG file as a new JPEG file - then the resampling will start to degrade the image.

In practice it's a very unlikely scenario and unlikely to be visible to our eyes when used more normally.

For those in doubt, I would suggest trying it. Shoot a RAW file, make the best you can of it and print it at A3. Then shoot an identical JPEG and make the most of that image before printing at A3. I've put it that way because the two approaches need different processing to optimise the image, so it's only the final output that we should judge.

Comment by johnriley posted on Lens correction feature on K7 at 26/03/2010 - 16:46

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