I guess if someone wants to unload some problem they might do that and then, having satisfied the need, they don't reappear. That's fair enough, all part of the service!

I'm not referring to any individual when I say that by the way!

Well the idea is nice I suppose, give newcomers a chance to say hello and who they are. It was actually quite heavily asked for at the time.

There aren't that many new posts per day in there as a rule, but if you don't want to read then just click "mark all as read" at the top of the section and all the green alerts will disappear.

When on a tripod there is no shake, so all shake reduction systems start to look for the shake and end up inducing it instead. Every manufacturer instruction book I've seen advises the same - when on a tripod, turn off the shake reduction.

I also suspect that as the Pentax DSLRs clamp the sensor to a fixed position when SR is turned off this probably means the highest precision at that point, so for critical macro work that would be the way to go.

I use the 2 second self timer for tripod shots, so the camera turns SR off automatically.

Wow, that is a bargain!

Don't forget that any 80mm lens has the same DOF as any other 80mm lens.

What happens with format is that on 6x6cm you get the field of view of a standard lens with 75/80mm. Thus, your standard lens has less DOF than a standard lens for 35mm film cameras or APS-C DSLRs.

It's all connected and logical once you've clicked with the idea that DOF depends on magnification. For a given magnification, all lenses say at f8 have the same DOF.

To understand that, think of taking a photo of a small ornament. A 50mm macro is used to take the image. Now we decide to use a 100mm macro to take the same image, but 100mm lenses have less DOF? Yes, at the same distance, but to fit our subject in we have to move twice as far away, thus restoring the DOF.

There are lots of rules of thumb that cover these sort of issues that are better suited to the practicalities of taking photographs, but they are not always strictly correct. That bit is the small print...

Tolerance is a wonderful thing. We are all different and have different reasons for being involved with photography.

I'm going to stick with the comment though, because I did actually own the Fuji S602 Pro, then the S7000 and finally the S9600. Of these three the S7000 was excellent.

The S9600 was nowhere near as good and actually quite disappointing.

I can only report what I find.

I use +1 sharpness in camera. The reason is that some sharpening of DSLR images in needed and fotoLibra does not accept any sharpening in Photoshop. They do however accept some modest sharpening in camera.

If the people who buy images require this, then it seems to me that there's something worth taking note of.

Certainly bridge cameras already use more aggressive sharpening, so you might find +2 sharpness more like what you are used to. Worth a try anyway!

Nothing has been changed, so it's business as usual. I'm not sure if any thoughts have emerged about this as of yet.

Getting back to the OP, the Fiji 9600 is actually not that good in terms of image quality. The Pentax K-7 should be considerably better and don'[t forget that the kit lens is actually quite a good one.

Was it new? If it was second hand perhaps the previous owner has set something oddly, or perhaps the camera and/or lens are damaged.

There is a reset to factory defaulots option in the menu. After that, set maximum quality levels in JPEG Premium setting and you should have no problem. 200ISO is a good place to start with sensitivity. Make sure that camera shake is not a problem, use centre-spot AF and set Daylight WB. If there is still a problem it may be as simple as a fault, in which case that needs addressing.