I wonder if it's the CCD that's making the difference or something else in the processing, because there has been a steady increase in image quality as each model type came along.

The K20D was much better than the K10D and the K-5 is much better than the K20D. At large image sizes or with extensive cropping the difference counts.

If you shoot JPEG you can adjust the parameters to give the look you want - sharpness, contrast, saturation, and of course the image style as well. I use natural but others may prefer Bright or even Vivid.

What would you see as the advantage of using a CCD in a DSLR as opposed to the current trend for CMOS?

The MX originally was supplied with Silver Oxide cells, but later with Alkaline , presumably as a cost reduction exercise.

These cameras are not really suitable for Lithium batteries. Even as late as the MX we were warned not to use Lithium.

I've removed a post that named a PU member and would just mention that we shouldn't cast aspertions about other members. It could well be that we would be wrong in our assumptions and then someone quite innocent could find themselves being accused.

That can't be right, so do please bear it in mind.

Please use English in the forums so we can all understand what's being said.

The camera works fine with pentax flash guns and studio flash as far as my usage so far seems to indicate - one problem is that Pentax and all manufacturers do not guarantee what will happen when you use other manufacturer's kit with their cameras. It may be that Metz need to do something to the flashgun.

Manual flash should be fine in any event.

The flash systems on the K-7 and K-5 do seem much better than the K10D and K20D.

The Hadley Pro is the perfect choice, an all-weather bag that is slim and unobtrusive, plenty roomy enough for camera and several lenses plus accessories and has a design that has no wasted space.

It was posted 30-04-2011 so there have been lots of other images since then. The latest are shown first and images soon move onto page 2 and then 3....and so on.

Shutters run slower with age as the springs tire, so your 1/1000 sec is unlikely to be even close. Calibration in those days was only to within 20% anyway. You might only be getting 1/500sec, plus a bit of error on the meter.

It takes an electronic shutter to have any chance of being spot on.