A further point:
The SFX(n) ('87) held the AF fort for Pentax right up to the point when the Z-1/Z-10 ('91) arrived with some help from the SF7. Canikon offered oodles of bodies in the same time-frame.

They introduced the KAF lens mount and all those 1.7x AF converters (selling for oodles of cash today) along with it.

Pentax (and we) have a great deal to thank the SFX(n) for

John.

Just compared the SFX & SFXn 2CR5 battery holders, quite surprisingly they're different. The SFX one has a more pronounced curve (and slight overlap with the inside of the camera grip) to the SFXn one. The SFX one has 'SFX' on the holder, the SFXn holder is plain with 'SFX' on the inside of the camera grip.

This is why the SFX holder looks closer to the AA battery holder (that had no logo and was noticeably 'squarer' as I remember it). The one in MrCad is almost certainly the SFX 2CR5 holder from what I've just seen.

John.

Lens has now found a new home.

Thanks for looking.

John.

I had an SFXn for many years (sorry I sold it in the end). As the first Pentax AF (body integral), it should be a classic one day...

Today it's seems overlooked (prices seem low), but it still has a lot to offer - non-crippled K mount, will work with FAJ & DA lenses (Tv or 3 programs), AF confirmation with 'direction arrows'. Easy user interface, off-set hotshoe. It is better with the AA battery grip though.

There's nothing flimsy about them and a lot more metal underneath the exterior than later models.

I happen to have a Hove guide for sale in the classifieds

John.

My return to film was for similar reasons but I also prefer using film equipment and older lenses. I feel like I'm more part of the process as a result. Fortunately being a Pentax user makes it easy to switch between the two.

I'd urge anyone who hasn't tried film but has K/M/A/F/FA or M42 lenses to buy a cheap body and have a go. Anybody lucky enough to have FA Ltds should feel guilty if they're not using them on their originally intended format

John.

The linked photos are too abstract for me. I can't give any advice on the blurb other than to suggest that 'rare Pentax user' should perhaps be reworded or omitted. Perhaps a separate note stating that these images were captured with Pentax cameras/lenses might be more appropriate.

John.

Hi, what's the filter thread size?

John.

I'll offer £15 for the hood for my Super-Tak 35/3.5, SRS are still listing the FA 50/1.4 for £259 - know which I'd prefer.

Then again I'm amazed having bought my (shop clearance) F50/1.7 for £20 in the '90s...

Nobody wants the M's for some reason, can't even give them away.

The principle is the same (although with film you may be better using a slower film speed to start with) something like ISO 25 if it's still available.

Film suffers from a phenomenon known as Reciprocity Failure when exposures get beyond a second or so:link. Different films react in different ways, but you need to add exposure to compensate for it (to an already long exposure). You can get data sheets for some films that should provide details, or you can experiment.

John.

Don't forget to rewind the film into the cassette before opening the back

Not that I've ever done it of course but if you do, snapping the back closed immediately minimises the damage.