One way to increase the resistance on the F lenses when focusing manually is to drag a finger from your right hand on the focus ring (assuming you can reach it). The SFX had a slower (less torquey) AF motor than the Z-1 designed with the FAs in mind. The FA's often had PowerZoom gubbins in them too.

The SFX does have one advantage over my K-5, the AF illuminator projects a contrast pattern onto the subject. If you're using it to focus on a surface with no contrast, the SFX nails it every time, the K-5 doesn't (unless I hook up my AF240FT flash which also projects a contrast pattern).

I've read the comments on this thread with interest, for me (as others have commented) the logical choice would be 'P' (really Hyper-P). The ability to start at the program settings (or rather the selected program line) and shift up/down from this point seems really useful.

However (at least on the K-5), the real gem is 'M' (or Hyper-M), which can be all exposure modes with a couple of button presses. Manual retains your settings, but press the green button and the selected program line is then set (giving you 'P') - but the dials then allow you to change either freely. Pressing the exposure lock will then lock the selected combination and either dial will then shift them both depending on the dial (Av, Tv or Hyper-P however you want to call it).

I remember my Z-1 allowed you to select whether the Tv/Av options in Hyper-P stopped shifting if you ran off either end (i.e. hit max/min aperture or shutter speed) or allowed them to continue. This might not be an issue with the mode dial set to Av or Tv. The Z-1 had separate exposure modes for each option - Hyper-M (or M with the lens not on A), P, Tv, Av, Hyper-P, bulb etc.

Though I feel the choice of metering mode and procedure is more important than the exposure mode in most cases.

Hi Kris,

Horses for courses as I'm sure you'll appreciate. I bought my 67 a few months ago, but you might also have to budget for a bigger bag too!

The results on film are spectacular but trying to find affordable scanning that shows them off to their best is somewhat harder...

John.

IIRC the instruction manuals state that the evaluative metering doesn't work with pre-A lenses and centre-weighted is used instead (spot still works). This goes back to the Z-1 (the first Pentax to have evaluative metering). This could be one reason why metering with pre-A lenses is different. I haven't noticed it as a problem but then I rarely use evaluative metering.

Lenses with sticky apertures might also be the cause of metering issues depending how you stop them down. One of my lenses has a sticky aperture, using the green button didn't stop the lens down fully before metering BUT using the K-5s 'stopdown' position of the shutter release collar (where you can hold it stopped down for as long as you wish) solves the problem. The actual exposure isn't affected as much because the lens would usually stop down enough before the exposure.

Firstly Pentax needed more cameras - now achieved. Having only two DSLRs in the lineup puts them at a disadvantage in the shop window. Canikon have at least half a dozen on display each, giving more shelf space and prominence.

Being honest, users of other systems are unlikely to change to another without a very good reason. New users need to be educated with decent advice - far too many are simply sold Canikon because the half the shop is dedicated to them and Pentax don't get a look in. One chain I was in (now defunct) even stated you can't get new Pentax lenses - try ebay - whilst I was holding/considering buying (I didn't) a DA 15 Ltd from their shop.

There's nothing wrong with the cameras, most users don't come close to getting the most out of their gear (I know I don't). I want certain features and a certain level of control but most of the features on DSLRs are unnecessary/hardly used.

I do know a number of people who simply see a DSLR as another piece of gadget techiness, they care mostly about the 'image' the camera makes when it's around their neck, cost/features rarely come into it. The main selling points will soon not be photographic/video related but integrated smart phone/tablet operating systems, integrated social media connections and so on.

John.

Having looked at a photo of the Q strap, it looks like it would fit. Anybody know for sure?

John.

Sorry, I think this is the wrong way round. For 1:4 you need to set the ISO on the flash two stops lower than you're shooting with - to under-expose the flash.

Apologies,

John.

The ME Super allows full manual control of aperture & shutter speed unlike the ME. The up/down buttons to select the shutter speeds don't suit everybody though compared to the 'traditional' dial. The ME is limited to aperture priority, X-sync & bulb IIRC.

My preference is for the manual mechanical cameras (K1000/MX) as I feel they're more reliable 30+yrs down the line.

John.

If the flash unit has an M/TTL or TTL switch, try switching that away from TTL. A lot of independent guns had these switches along with the usual Manual and several Auto settings. Alternatively a cheap non-dedicated gun (or one fired on a PC cord - i.e. not hotshoe mounted) would avoid any problems.

For fill-in flash, you should be aiming for 1:4 (flash:daylight) as 'normal' and possibly 1:2 for 'extreme' situations. For 1:4 you simply set the Auto ISO dial/calculator on the flash two stops higher and read the appropriate aperture for (for 1:2 one stop higher) the film speed you're using. You'll need to make sure the resulting aperture allows a shutter speed no higher than the x-sync though.

John.

Hi Ken,

I've been away with the MX-1 for a couple of weeks. I'm not familiar with the Q strap, looking for an MX-1 one though really (unless they're the same?).

John.