The underlying technology (in this case bit density). Just like a FF 16Mp sensor offers lower noise/higher dynamic range than a 16Mp APS-C sensor, a larger card is likely to be a higher bit density than a smaller one. The smaller the bits, the more likely they are to be corrupted.

Compact Flash cards are likely to be more reliable than SD(HC) cards, partly for this reason, partly because they have a standard IDE interface (which removes an additional 'corruptable' layer.).

John.

Lens received, well packed and great condition.

John.

PM sent.

There are three basic types of camera (along with the most available/useful bodies):
1) Manual focus, fully manual (manual exposure only), e.g. K1000, MX
2) Manual focus, auto-manual (auto modes and manual), e.g. ME-Super, P30n/T, Super-A
3) Auto focus (usually offer most exposure modes), e.g. SFX, Z-1 & MZ-5n.

A lot depends on the lenses you want to use. Any camera with Program (P) or Shutter priority (Tv) will work with DA lenses (maybe with vignetting), some offer the same user interface as Pentax DSLRs (e.g. Z-1) and can use Av & Manual with DA lenses. Any screw-drive DA lens will autofocus with autofocus film SLRs.

For simple cameras I'd suggest (manual) K1000 or MX, (auto-manual) the ME-Super or P30n/T (not the original P30). All of these have good availability at reasonable prices but unless you know what to look for I'd recommend buying from a reputable dealer (online or otherwise) or from the classifieds here.

We could really do with a good 'how to' guide for film cameras to link to.

John.

Hi Bjørn,

In that case, a circular polariser should be fine using the cameras metering (trying to compensate for a polariser manually is variable anyway).

Velvia is contrasty enough that a polariser may be overkill (unless you're using it to remove reflections). If the scene is already contrasty, Velvia can really generate 'plastic' looking colours. If I'm using an auto-exposure mode I set my ISO for Velvia 50 at ISO 40. If using manual (like my 67's), I set my ISO at 50 but I'm aware that I've only got half stops on the aperture ring, so I aim to have the meter show slight over rather than slight under exposure (if it shows exactly correct I usually go for half a stop over). Then again I still get my fair share of under-exposed shots.

Hi Bjørn,

I presume by B&W you mean monochrome and not filters from the company called 'B+W'?

I'm not totally familiar with the 67ii prisms, but it should meter taking account of the coloured filters without needing exposure compensation. But, bear in mind the meter is likely calibrated for white light and might not meter the exact same 'filter factor' as expected by monochrome film - whether there is a practical difference I'm not sure.

I'd suggest testing the metering with and without the filters and seeing whether the difference lines up with the stated filter factors. In all cases, you should focus with the filter present (some deep red filters may make this hard).

As for a polariser, I'm not sure - they're usually only a problem with linear polarisers on cameras with secondary mirrors (and part of the primary mirror being 'pellicle' - semi-silvered). I'm not sure if the 67ii uses one. This link
seems to suggest either linear or circular polarisers will be fine with the 67ii.

John.

As a Z-1 user from '91, the K-5 feels retro to me

The Df allows you to use the 'rabbit-ear' lenses (whatever they call them) you only have to set the aperture twice (once on the camera, once on the lens), now that's clunky!

I went a few years ago. It had rained heavily the days before and the car parks were flooded/muddy and cars were having difficulty getting on causing huge queues. If going on-site for the show I'd recommend getting there very early.

I can't help with accommodation other than any hotels or travel lodge type places within striking distance appear to be block booked as soon as the show dates are confirmed.

Photography wise, you get the guys with the big lenses on top of step-ladders getting in the way if you're not careful.

Good show though.

John.

The problem is probably not the circuit board (chip), but more likely the software licence fee per unit they'd probably have to pay. Other consumer electronics companies sell millions more gadgets (phones, tablets, PCs etc) with these technologies, but at these volumes the licences are much cheaper per unit.

Another option would be launch the firmware without it and then charge for an update to switch it on (which would of course go down great with us lot ).

John.

I guess this is kind of what the lens review section on the US forum is trying to do which seems to track what people have paid over time (not sure if there are enough data points though). It's difficult though, especially for uncommon or out of production lenses (sorry '@@RARE@@'...).

A lot of ebay prices go for far more than you'd see in the classifieds in the back of AP. Whether this is because you can show off a photo on ebay, or because it offers a worldwide market I don't know (the reverse is also often true). I recently bought a beautiful lens from the used section of a proper camera shop, almost mint, for half the price it probably would have fetched on ebay.

When I've bought from the classifieds, I haven't always known whether I or the seller got the best deal - but I've never been disappointed unlike some ebay purchases.

John.