Hi 456,

The lens is worth that on it's own (even if it's an M). The P50 has Av, Manual and two programs (Action & Depth), Meter lock and DOF preview. It will also bolt onto the Motordrive-A (3fps). Build wise it's a cross-over between a 'proper metal camera' and the electronic age and is interesting for that reason.

Boring tech fact time: It was the first camera to have a pictogrm LCD panel on the top plate (icons to show running person & mountains).

John.

I'm working on a new banner image for my web site and since there has been recent discussion on aviation photos I thought I'd post what I've got so far:




This is crop from this image:




I don't normally like cropping if I can avoid it, but this is for a banner and the subject lends itself to this kind of crop (and I couldn't do a lot else with it anyway!).

Details:
Shot from the viewing park at Manchester (Runway 05L in use) with a K-5, DA 17-70 f/4 at 70mm.

Comments & suggestions welcome.

John.

Hi All,

I'm looking at keeping a set of non-rechargeable Lithium AA batteries in my bag for backup, has anyone had any experience of these in a K-5? I want to be able to leave them in there and not have to worry about remembering to charge them.

John.

Changing systems is a big and expensive step. I tried it in my film days when I decided my Z-1 AF was too slow, the AF illuminator required the flash to be popped-up and it lacked a vertical shooting grip.

I ended up buying an EOS 5, vertical grip and 28-135 IS lens (and a secondhand EOS Adaptall2 mount for my Tamron lenses). I sold the 28-135 (too bulky, heavy & slow) and replaced it with a 50/1.8 which I found much better. All of this cost me a huge amount of cash (more £££s than a K-5 costs now), I didn't get on with it and was pleased I still had my Z-1.

The benefit of staying in a system is that you can add/upgrade as your needs/budget allows, selling bits when you've upgraded them and don't have a huge outlay in a single hit (and value lost when trading the old stuff). If switching, I think you need to sell everything in one hit, because trying to use two systems fragments your budgets.

If you haven't done so, identify the CaNikon body you'd be buying, go to a shop, pick them up and compare them to a K-5. The twin dials and HyperManual/HyperProgram modes had me sold on the Z-1 in the '90s and the K-5 a few weeks ago. With the K-5 I was starting from scratch (it's my first DSLR) but my previous collection of lenses/flashes/IR remotes has saved me hundreds of pounds. I'd forgotten I had half of the gear.

Glass is important but your approach/technique plays a bigger part. I think only when you're getting the most out your technique will you benefit from better glass (different focal lengths is a different issue). It's the fine tuning that makes most of the difference.

Hi Darkman,

For aviation you definitely need a zoom (and unless you're getting really serious - step ladders and the like!) 300mm is as far as you practically want to go on an APS-C format. The wide end of the 150-500 is going to be too long for larger aircraft).

Body wise I really like my K-5 and the additional grip really helps with longer lenses, the better sensor would be my prime consideration. I shoot most of my aviation on manual having taken a spot reading off a mid-tone. As long as you check it from time to time I find it easier than trying to second guess AE & matrix metering. Similarly I shoot in AF-S and single drive mode as I like to time shots between pylons, peoples heads and step ladders...

Don't forget that you should try to capture movement in propellors, 1/500th is usually too fast and trying to handhold a big heavy lens at 1/250th can be challenging.

Of the lenses you have, the 70-300 is probably the most useful, I can't comment on the Pentax options. I use an old Sigma full frame 70-300 f/4-5.6 APO which is the right length but slow to focus. If it's sunny, a lens hood is really helpful (there's a lot of open sky at an airshow).

Hope this helps,

John.

Could someone with the 12-24 comment as to whether it, at 15mm, is comparable to Mhuni's shot? I'm amazed that just 2mm wider than the 17-70 can 'feel' so different.

The white background is going to show-up the vignetting more than many real world situations.

I recently looked at the 15mm DA, compared to my 17-70, there isn't much difference in coverage (although if you really need it then it's probably 'a must have'). Given the cost is similar to the 12-24, I couldn't justify it. If you already have the 12-24 it's a different issue I guess.

If I had a 12-24 & 17-70 but wanted a small compact lens, the DA21 would better suit my shooting.

The flag raising at Iwo Jima was staged, apparently the original flag wasn't big enough link

However, if it's powerful/famous images being discussed, does it matter?

For many years my preferred kit was the Super-A, Motordrive-A and M 40/2.8 (pancake) lens. If the 50 & 35-105 aren't enough, one of the many 28-80 ish zooms would be useful (and can be very inexpensive), M or A 28mm primes seem to be much more expensive. Avoid the FAJ's which don't have an aperture ring. I once had a Tokina KA 24-70mm lens and regretted selling it.

The Program-A needs an 'A' setting on the aperture for program mode but is perfectly usable with M lenses (manual and aperture priority). Manual is often easiest as it doesn't have an AE lock.