All Forum Comments
Comment by johnha posted on K1000 production? at 09/04/2012 - 14:48
When I was considering the 12-24 or DA15, I stumbled across the DA15 in a local Jessops. I had the K-5 with me so tried it and although I hadn't planned to jump in an buy it, I was going to until the response to a casual question about the 12-24 slagged off Pentax, at which point the DA15 went back on the shelf.
Comment by johnha posted on Jessops fall out with pentax at 09/04/2012 - 14:23
Nice bagful of kit there Kris,
I still think proper cameras are nicer to use, must get my S1a out again.
John.
I still think proper cameras are nicer to use, must get my S1a out again.
John.
Comment by johnha posted on What's in my bag today at 07/04/2012 - 18:00
Hi Mark,
The 'Auto' apertures (red/blue etc.) use the sensor on the front to kill the flash output when it detects the right amount of light has been received by the subject. The distance associated with these apertures are maximum and if closer the flash automatically reduces the duration of the flash to get correct exposure.
In manual, it always discharges at full power, so if the subject is closer than required it will be over-exposed, if further it will be under-exposed. There's usually a table or calculator with ISO, aperture and distance figures. Pick (or set your ISO), work out how far your subject is from the flash, where these two meet on the table/calculator should give you the aperture to use.
Alternatively if it has a GuideNumber (GN) (usually for ISO 100) which will be in meters or feet, simply divide this by the subject distance to get the aperture:
i.e. GN10m at ISO 100, subject is 2.5m away, use f/4
John.
The 'Auto' apertures (red/blue etc.) use the sensor on the front to kill the flash output when it detects the right amount of light has been received by the subject. The distance associated with these apertures are maximum and if closer the flash automatically reduces the duration of the flash to get correct exposure.
In manual, it always discharges at full power, so if the subject is closer than required it will be over-exposed, if further it will be under-exposed. There's usually a table or calculator with ISO, aperture and distance figures. Pick (or set your ISO), work out how far your subject is from the flash, where these two meet on the table/calculator should give you the aperture to use.
Alternatively if it has a GuideNumber (GN) (usually for ISO 100) which will be in meters or feet, simply divide this by the subject distance to get the aperture:
i.e. GN10m at ISO 100, subject is 2.5m away, use f/4
John.
Comment by johnha posted on Cobra Auto 210 at 06/04/2012 - 17:52
Hi Lena,
Welcome to the forum.
John.
Welcome to the forum.
John.
Comment by johnha posted on Hi From Torbay at 06/04/2012 - 16:48
My Super-A converted somebody from Nikon. I nearly converted to Canon when I bought an EOS 5, grip and 28-135 IS lens (soon swapped for a 50/1.9). The lens IS switch broke, the mode dial on the camera broke, the whole thing seemed 'clunky' to quote an earlier post. The front dial was in the wrong place for me and the rear dial didn't feel right.
The two things going for it was the on-body AF Illuminator and the 5fps from the 2CR5 battery (when everything else including the EOS 1n needed a heavy booster battery).
The Hyper modes on my Z-1 blew me away, such a simple change makes a massive difference. Hyper Manual particularly.
The two things going for it was the on-body AF Illuminator and the 5fps from the 2CR5 battery (when everything else including the EOS 1n needed a heavy booster battery).
The Hyper modes on my Z-1 blew me away, such a simple change makes a massive difference. Hyper Manual particularly.
Comment by johnha posted on Have You Converted Anyone? at 02/04/2012 - 22:56
Hi,
The lens aperture reading a stop slower sometimes might be down to a variable aperture zoom (as you zoom out the aperture becomes slightly smaller). If the lens is f/x-f/y this will be the reason?
The power zoom lens buttons are quite (very?) fragile and usually break at some point. I have two 28-80 FA Powerzoom lenses and this switch has broken three times (one was repaired and later broke again). More important is that the power-zoom ring clicks into and out of the power zoom mode (it slides forwards & backwards). The power zoom features weren't really useful and drained the expensive 2CR5 batteries too quickly for me.
I'd be tempted to scroll the dial one way then the other quite vigorously to see if it frees anything up!
The lens aperture reading a stop slower sometimes might be down to a variable aperture zoom (as you zoom out the aperture becomes slightly smaller). If the lens is f/x-f/y this will be the reason?
The power zoom lens buttons are quite (very?) fragile and usually break at some point. I have two 28-80 FA Powerzoom lenses and this switch has broken three times (one was repaired and later broke again). More important is that the power-zoom ring clicks into and out of the power zoom mode (it slides forwards & backwards). The power zoom features weren't really useful and drained the expensive 2CR5 batteries too quickly for me.
I'd be tempted to scroll the dial one way then the other quite vigorously to see if it frees anything up!
Comment by johnha posted on Z1 Aperture control wheel at 02/04/2012 - 22:26
Hi Beakynet,
It's partly funds but also to make sure they both don't get lost in the post together . What did you have done to the Zoom 70? I have one which seems to have a jammed lens and hadn't thought anything could be done for it.
It's partly funds but also to make sure they both don't get lost in the post together . What did you have done to the Zoom 70? I have one which seems to have a jammed lens and hadn't thought anything could be done for it.
Comment by johnha posted on LX shutter lock variants at 30/03/2012 - 15:37
It depends on the venue, but I think 1/150th or higher at f/2.8 is going to be unlikely indoors for an ISO below 3200. If it's an old church, they are deceptively gloomy. I think flash is a must.
Comment by johnha posted on Diving into 2 wedding this year. Help!!!!!!! at 30/03/2012 - 15:16
Hi all,
I'm looking for advice on LX variations (the black bodies not the specials). I have two with different shutter lock designs, similar to these two links (apparently early link) and (later link), both bodies go up to ISO 3200 (which is possibly significant).
Both need a CLA (sticky mirrors), I'm wondering if there's any differences that may be an issue or help me decide which to get CLA'd first. My 'early' one was generally in better condition than the 'later' one.
Also I may have swapped the backs across in the past, I presume this shouldn't be a problem?
Any preferences between Harrow Technical & Asahi would be helpful too.
Thanks,
John.
I'm looking for advice on LX variations (the black bodies not the specials). I have two with different shutter lock designs, similar to these two links (apparently early link) and (later link), both bodies go up to ISO 3200 (which is possibly significant).
Both need a CLA (sticky mirrors), I'm wondering if there's any differences that may be an issue or help me decide which to get CLA'd first. My 'early' one was generally in better condition than the 'later' one.
Also I may have swapped the backs across in the past, I presume this shouldn't be a problem?
Any preferences between Harrow Technical & Asahi would be helpful too.
Thanks,
John.
Comment by johnha posted on LX shutter lock variants at 30/03/2012 - 00:16
I aquired a K1000 a while ago and have a question about which version it may be. I know these were made in Japan, Hong Kong & China, but don't know when 'Asahi' was removed from the prism.
Mine doesn't have the Asahi above Pentax on the front, the prism front is sractched, it doesn't look like it had the 'AoCo' logo but I can't b sure. it has metal top/bottom plates and simply 'Asahi OPT. CO.' on the base (no 'made in...' at all). The serial number starts 510****. The film speed goes to 3200. Any ideas where/when it may have been made?
John.