Phew! Bad enough but could have been worse. Wonder why you can't talk to them??

That Pentax 18-35 would still be your best buy for now. Not perfect but it is a Pentax and cost is peanuts. You could use it on a KP too!
https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-FAJ-18-35mm-F4-5.6-Zoom-Lens...

Oh dear. Hope there wasn't any damage to the lens itself or the camera.
Your experience makes a nonsense of the comment earlier in the thread that Johnsons couldn't help.

Isn't that just an APS-C lens? If you're buying new for full frame why would you get that? The 15-30 is Tamron's offering, albeit modified by Pentax. You could consider the Sigma 12-24 but resolution isn't as good as the prime Samyang or Irix, particularly at the edges. Samyang also do a 12mm although its a fish-eye. That can however be de-fished using Fisheye Hemi, a Photoshop plug-in (works well and with Elements too.)
As to using filters, not going too wide makes things simpler, and a polarizer doesn't always give the right effect with very wide lenses as they darken skies mostly at 90 deg to the sun so can lead to an uneven darkening. (ND grads not affected by that.)
Re Scout estimation. one had to estimate three heights and three widths and be within 10%.

Not really an issue with a super wide. If you want to be inconspicuous the 15-30 isn't the lens to go for as it's quite large. Something like a 20 or 24mm might be worth considering and set it to its hyperfocal distance to get a wide depth of field. With the 14 / 15's you'd have to poke the camera up really close or your subject will be a speck in the distance though DOF is even greater. Many compact cameras of the past didn't have focussing and relied on a default hyperfocal setting, allowing around anything from 5 feet to infinity to be in focus (albeit there really can only be one point of true focus.)
With the 15-30 you'd need to put the camera to the eye to see the field of view, so why not use that approach to focussing a manual wide lens? Have it pre-focussed, or guess the distance and set it directly the old fashioned way. Its not hard to guess 5, 10, 20, 40 metres or whatever but if that doesn't come naturally because you weren't a boy scout it only takes a bit of practice!

One a bit cheaper here:
https://www.lcegroup.co.uk/Used/Pentax-15-30mm-F2.8-ED-SDM-WR-***MINT&BOXED***_165205.html
Warning - it is heavy, not only in price!

If you want a real bargain, seek out a Pentax 18-35 which used to be the kit lens with the initial DSLRs. It is full frame though and perfectly usable while you're saving up. Well under £100.
https://www.harrisoncameras.co.uk/pd/Used-Pentax-AF-18-35mm-F4-56-Lens-AL_USED-1...
Otherwise seek out a prime of your preferred focal length. Neither the Samyang 14mm or the Irix 15mm will completely break the bank, nor will they break your back carrying them! But they're not zooms of course.
You might even get by with your 10-20 by restricting it to around 17-20mm, room to experiment with that.

Oh well, sorry to hear that. I wonder why it isn't coupling correctly.

The Pentax K-3ii replacement was originally rumoured to come out within six months of the KP's release, that would have been by the end of June. I've not seen anything to confirm or deny whether that will happen.

Yes, it should work like an M lens then. M mode and green button metering. Check that the aperture lever is working the aperture mechanism; it should do.

Could it be the same issue as this? :




The scraped away area was required to get an earth return.

Do your tubes have electrical contacts? As I said, its hard to diagnose the problem without seeing it!

I have a set of Jessops auto extension tubes and everything works fine.