Argentina is a bit of a melting pot, but for some reason I guessed Dirk was an expatriate, not a local. No doubt we will find out.

G

I should try Dutch, or perhaps Flemish, if I were you.

G

[quote="Pwynnej"]I can see why the old Tak gets less use now!

I believe it's a perfectly adequate lens most of the time, but obviously not so good with the light in front of you.

The exposure issue with the K10D gets progressively worse as you stop down. If you were mainly doing portraits at wide apertures, you may never have experienced a problem.

G

Sorry, Takumar is the name given by Asahi to their screw-mount lenses. A few bayonet lenses were also produced under the Takumar name but they lack SMC coating, and are best avoided.

Your lens is actually described as "Takumar (bayonet)" on the lens barrel, and this description prevents confusion.

It won't meter properly on the K10D.

G

The problem is in metering with K and M lenses, not screw-mount lenses.

There is no reason why you cannot get excellent pictures with any lens provided you expose correctly.

G

It's purely a K10D problem.

G

Where you have something in the way of the light path, you are asking for trouble, so make sure that both flashguns can "see" each other.

Brollies often have bits of silvery metal on them, and it is not impossible that reflections could add to the signal. You know: "Send reinforcements, we're going to advance" becomes "Send three and fourpence, we're going to a dance".

I'm sure your problem is of this nature.

G

This is good advice.

If buying manual, try to get one with several manual settings - eg: full power, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8.

Swivel and, especially, tilt, are useful, as they facilitiate bounce flash. A sensor is useful, too, as it enables the flash to cut off when it deems that the camera has had enough light for the set aperture.

If you see one on Ebay with a diffuser, and/or a slave trigger, the package will probably cost less than buying them separately.

I find a flash bracket to be very useful to move the flash a bit further away from the camera, and thereby reduce red-eye. I know you can get rid of red-eye, but it's best to avoid it altogether.

If you want to stick to Pentax, the AF240Z is usually pretty cheap, but it only has one manual setting. The AF200T has lots of manual settings, but the head is fixed.

I would suggest getting the Samsung equivalent of the AF360FGZ if the budget will stretch. It'll have all the manual control you could wish for, and you'll never have to upgrade, even when you buy a wireless flash body, like the K10D.

G

Probably not, because the K110D does not work in TTL mode, and the flash unit, unusually, does not appear to have a manual mode. Virtually every other Pentax flash DOES have a manual mode, so this was an unfortunate choice.

G