edumad

Joined: 8th May 2008

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edumad
I think for most subjects the more blurry(fig3, also sometimes called butery, smooth, silky) the OOF areas the better the effect on the image.
However it allways depends on the subject. Sometimes better defined edges in the bokeh work better. Its a matter of the subject and of taste.

What one should do is identify the primary subjects on which one wants to use the lens and determine what type of bokeh one prefers for that subject.

Tipically the objective of using a small depth of field is to lessen the impact of other elements and enhance that of the subject in focus. To that effect, larger apertures with smooth transitions between shapes in the OOF region is desirable.
However on might want a certain character to the opposite region (to the one in focus), we dont want the background to be discernible, but it has a definate role to play, a certain impact is desired. To this effect very smooth transitions might not work, lenses with defined edges might give a nice brush like effect which works better.

Some examples:
Bad bokeh:
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I like the brush like effect, but here its too distracting.


Good bokeh
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I like the little pale white balls decorating the background.

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Because the rest of the plants are soo poorly defined, the bee and flower really stick ou.

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A better defined background here works best, and the harder edges help IMO.
Sorry don't have bad examples of smooth bokeh, but here it wouldn't work for example...

Comment by edumad posted on Question at 29/06/2009 - 10:52

edumad
I'd recommend the DA 55-300mm. Its a very good lens, and sharper at 300mm than the 70-300mm options.

There is also a Sigma 100-300mm F.5-6.7mm on ebay right now that seems nice

Comment by edumad posted on 200-300 RANGE at 27/06/2009 - 15:27

edumad
Its very likely that ffordes replaced the foams, no?
I've got one too and its a great camera.
Not all MXs can do MLU, but mine does. I just force my index finger against my thumb (kinda like doing the ok signal the divers use), this makes a spring like action, when you release the thumb, the index hits the shutter button at very high speed, locking it up.

Comment by edumad posted on Pentax MX Users at 27/06/2009 - 15:10

edumad
Congrats Dan, and don't despair you'll always have your pictures to remember of the days when you were free.

Seriously, I hope that warm fuzzy feeling lasts forever.

Comment by edumad posted on Congratulations to PentaxDan! at 26/06/2009 - 10:10

edumad
I'll drop by and check with them. It would be really cool. Because you have to pay to enter I assumed then you could take pictures, its the usual deal on most of the places I've been to.

Comment by edumad posted on Scottish Pentaxians meet at 26/06/2009 - 10:00

edumad
I believe these would be the original types for the M version lenses.
But you should find them cheaper than that auction.

Comment by edumad posted on Pentax M 135mm lens cap at 25/06/2009 - 12:19

edumad
Since its so close to home, I'll be sure to take all my humble kit, so I can share with you guys.
Hope to see many of you there.

Comment by edumad posted on Scottish Pentaxians meet at 25/06/2009 - 11:37

edumad
I got a Sigma Pantel 135mm M42 for the sole purpose of trying out the F64...

Comment by edumad posted on newbie question: DOF in landscapes at 25/06/2009 - 11:13

edumad
Main rivals of the K-7: 500D and D5000?
: Someone care to enlighten me?

Comment by edumad posted on Another K-7 Review at 24/06/2009 - 18:07

edumad
Rationalise, I could use that... I grab anything that seems a good price (more or less)
Thats why I have loads of lenses and no 17-70mm yet...

I've just nailed a CZJ 135mm F3.5 and a Super Tak f3.5, both well worn, but at a good price and I'll finally be able to compare these lenses.

Actually I might do a 135mm battle soon.

Comment by edumad posted on Pentax SMC-K 135 f2.5 for sale at 24/06/2009 - 10:31

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