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Comment by Don posted on Monitors for photo work at 27/12/2009 - 18:12
Photomonk wrote:
Don,
That is not showing on Snow Leopard. It shows other things but not the control.
The Photomonk
I'm a little slow today...lolDon,
That is not showing on Snow Leopard. It shows other things but not the control.
The Photomonk
here's a contrast control under "Universal access"
not sure about snow leopard, haven't upgraded yet!
Comment by Don posted on Monitors for photo work at 27/12/2009 - 17:39
Photomonk wrote:
The Photomonk
sophiecentaur wrote:
Apple (computers - edit) have contrast and brightness controls in their monitor setup software. Ifaik, they always have.
Would you like to post a screen shot showing the contrast control so that I can prove an expert wrong? I have yet to find a contrast control for either my iMac or MacBook. I can find a brightness control but no contrast control.Apple (computers - edit) have contrast and brightness controls in their monitor setup software. Ifaik, they always have.
The Photomonk
Comment by Don posted on Monitors for photo work at 27/12/2009 - 17:33
technoidiot wrote:
Sophiecentaur said
If I go to Display in System Prefs I have two options - Display - Resolution - and a huge list of possibilities - a slider for brightness and my MBP will automatically adjust brightness as ambient conditions change . There is also the ability to detect displays
The other option is colour and a goodly number of display profiles - most of the common ones from my memory of the Calumet Printing Seminar . It is possible to calibrate it - but I think this is done manually rather than with a 'gadget ' and I don't want to fiddle with things I don't understand.
There may be differences with Desktop Machines - we need Photomonk here since he has both Desktop and MacBook.
BTW - what System are you running ?
on my macbook:Sophiecentaur said
Quote:
Apple have contrast and brightness controls in their monitor setup software. Ifaik, they always have.
not for my MacBook Pro Apple have contrast and brightness controls in their monitor setup software. Ifaik, they always have.
If I go to Display in System Prefs I have two options - Display - Resolution - and a huge list of possibilities - a slider for brightness and my MBP will automatically adjust brightness as ambient conditions change . There is also the ability to detect displays
The other option is colour and a goodly number of display profiles - most of the common ones from my memory of the Calumet Printing Seminar . It is possible to calibrate it - but I think this is done manually rather than with a 'gadget ' and I don't want to fiddle with things I don't understand.
There may be differences with Desktop Machines - we need Photomonk here since he has both Desktop and MacBook.
BTW - what System are you running ?
system preferences/displays/color/calibrate
from there you can set the contrast and brightness on your displays. same for the desktops.
Comment by Don posted on Monitors for photo work at 27/12/2009 - 17:14
I bought a $212.00 samsung 2333 synchmaster as a stopgap measure, for use with my macbook, while my Imac was being repaired, out of the box it was wayyyybright, buy after adjusting that on the monitiors side panel, I was able to calibrate it with a Huey, and it matches my older 17" imac g5's display easily, I've kept it.
out of the box it is set too bright... I may have to buy two more for use as video lights! lol
out of the box it is set too bright... I may have to buy two more for use as video lights! lol
Comment by Don posted on Monitors for photo work at 27/12/2009 - 16:38
Iso 100-400 is good on modern d-slrs, and the kx is perhaps the best at low light high iso...
I personally keep my cameras (k10's, ds2) at MTF priority (custom menu) to get the best performance from the lenses which is usually f8.
So I'd say stop it down between 5.6 and 11 and use higher iso's if needed.
even in the film days with my mz5 and 28-200 zoom I preferred iso 800 film, as the film didn't outperform the lens at 200mm where as velvia was capable of more sharpness than the lens at 200mm wide open...
I personally keep my cameras (k10's, ds2) at MTF priority (custom menu) to get the best performance from the lenses which is usually f8.
So I'd say stop it down between 5.6 and 11 and use higher iso's if needed.
even in the film days with my mz5 and 28-200 zoom I preferred iso 800 film, as the film didn't outperform the lens at 200mm where as velvia was capable of more sharpness than the lens at 200mm wide open...
Comment by Don posted on Best IQ - stop down or increase ISO?. at 27/12/2009 - 01:03
Lily is AWSOME!
Comment by Don posted on Lilly's pictures at 24/12/2009 - 15:15
depends... when lighting at night, I like to think in terms of how much ambient light you got, and how much light you need to add to a scene to get a shot with a particular subject...
for example, I might light a door frame with my car headlights, and set my color for that light source and let the rest go where it may..
or I may set a person in the scene and use srtobes to light them and set my color for the strobes...
also if I had to work with colored lightsource, I might wind up doin a custom white balance for the (usually red) sodiium light and add a red filter to my strobe then use the strobe to light or paint parts of the scene.
edited getting my flourecent and sodium lights mixed...need a coffee just got up
for example, I might light a door frame with my car headlights, and set my color for that light source and let the rest go where it may..
or I may set a person in the scene and use srtobes to light them and set my color for the strobes...
also if I had to work with colored lightsource, I might wind up doin a custom white balance for the (usually red) sodiium light and add a red filter to my strobe then use the strobe to light or paint parts of the scene.
edited getting my flourecent and sodium lights mixed...need a coffee just got up
Comment by Don posted on Sodium Street lighting - Filter? at 24/12/2009 - 14:51
thanx...
will start by doing patent searches, then move onto documentation and patent application, followed by business planning, then will seek capitol investment.
next year will be a busy one, that is for sure...
will start by doing patent searches, then move onto documentation and patent application, followed by business planning, then will seek capitol investment.
next year will be a busy one, that is for sure...
Comment by Don posted on Suggestions... at 23/12/2009 - 13:00
mikew wrote:
Could they retro apply leaf to a current DSLR?
I guess to do so they would have to close leaf
Open focal plane shutter
Fire leaf
close FP
Open leaf again
That needn't take too long.
Warning display of ignorance follows: I thought you could dial down the power output of studio flash?
sometimes not enough, esp with older gear!Could they retro apply leaf to a current DSLR?
I guess to do so they would have to close leaf
Open focal plane shutter
Fire leaf
close FP
Open leaf again
That needn't take too long.
Warning display of ignorance follows: I thought you could dial down the power output of studio flash?
leaf lenses would also help with video... and as Pentaxian450 pointed out sports
Comment by Don posted on predications Pentax 2010 at 22/12/2009 - 18:44
That is there but the display contrast enhancement is really poor. The one on the calibration through is not present. I wish I could discuss this further but I have a family situation I must attend to.
The Photomonk
I just plug it in, profile it with a Huey and go.
The samsung needed a brightness and contrast adjustment done on the display before profiling with the Huey and boom it was good.