It is a USB 3 (USB 'B') one that is required, I bought a high quality one from Amazon for only £1.40 and it is lightning fast at transferring files from the K-3. I don't like to keep removing memory cards as it risks damaging them and wearing the contacts.

Regards
David

Steve, once again these are excellent. There are no issues with the focus on the K-5II variants, maybe they don't have the tracking finesse, but they are fast and accurate, depending on the lens used. K-3 improves on this and has tracking too! I've used my K-3 for the first time today with wild birds and it is unerringly accurate (with Siggy 150-500).

Regards
David

Ed makes some good observations in that video. I've not seen any lack of sharpness with my K-3, either handheld or on a tripod. In fact, I'm finding resolution I didn't know existed with some of my older lenses which are supposedly less sharp than my modern lenses!

I've got a 40 year old Tamron 300mm F5.6 Adapt-a-matic, when using this at F8, WOW! I can see every individual hair on the coat of our Tibetan Terrier, so I can't wait to try this lens on the K-3 for photographing birds. This lens does not have a great reputation, so this bodes very well. I suspect that if people are seeing 'soft' images, I think it may be due to either technique, shooting jpeg, or to the post processing used.

Regards
David

The K-3 just gives a lovely shooting experience, the fact that it has more megapixels is icing on the cake. Pentax have got just about everything right on the handling front.

I'm looking forward to trying some wildlife shots with mine where the extra megapixels should prove very useful. I'm also particularly interested in how much performance it can wring out my antique prime lenses as my first impressions are that it makes these lenses easier to use and should maximise the IQ that they are capable of.

I think I'm very lucky as I didn't really have a 'K-3 vs. K-5' conundrum.

Regards
David

Yes, but only because of the plethora of shooting options. It will take longer to learn how to use the AF properly for example. In other ways it may be a bit easier, e.g. the metering is more accurate and it's harder to blow the highlights.

Regarding camera technique, it's true with any DSLR that good technique, steady hands etc. are required and it is no more so with the K-3 than previous bodies. In fact, the SR is supposed to be 1/2 to 1 stop better at avoiding shake, so it may actually be easier to get sharper handheld shots. Also, with flash the PTTL problems are sorted so flash should be easier. I haven't noticed any 'soft' images with my K-3 yet, not sure why others would see this.

Regards
David

Will you be printing them yourself on a home printer or getting them done professionally Maria?

Regards
David

These are excellent Steve, well done! All pin-sharp.

Regards
David

I had a Bigma 50-500 (older version) that produced exactly the same symptoms - I couldn't get a sharp image out of it at any focal length above approx. 150mm. I sold it and bought a 150-500 and that is superb - like chalk and cheese.

I don't know if there is a general issue with the lens, but what you've posted here mirrors almost exactly what I experienced.

Regards
David

Thanks for the info. Dr. Mhuni, I will have to compare my copy with that of one of my friends on the same camera body and see whether there is any difference. Mine is noticeably soft at the edges of the frame, but very sharp in the centre.

Regards
David

These are all very nice Jules, the first one is the one everyone is mentioning and this just has the magic light for me too.

5 & 6 are definitely on the slide to the left - I never trust the levels on any of my cameras as they don't seem to be very good!!

Regards
David