The odd thing I've found is that despite my K-m only supporting P-TTL it still works in auto mode with Program flashes. When I clip the AF240Z on and set both to Program mode it sets the aperture according to the ISO (matches the scale on the back of the flash) and then sets a shutter speed to suit. Providing the subject is within flash range the results are usually spot on, and while the flash is recharging it flicks back to flashless settings. It also does this with the AF200SA and AF200T, although those aren't as useful for an on-camera flash as they lack the bounce head.

Yep, I have an SMC Tak 135mm lens which has the coupling to allow open aperture metering. Problem is, the only "normal" M42 lens I have is the Super Tak 35mm which doesn't have the coupling. How do I use stop-down metering with the ES II? I am guessing it goes like this:

Focus
Set aperture to Manual, stop down, check indicator needle and adjust shutter speed to match needles (so far like the KX but without open-aperture metering).
Switch back to Auto, check focus and composition, shoot.

I will be more inclined to buy it an SMC Tak 55mm f1.8 when I know that it works properly, so I need to fire off a roll of film with the 35mm lens (which was bundled with a very nice KM and genuine adapter) first. Not much point in buying more M42 lenses until then, as I've never had any success using them on digital (always comes out seriously underexposed if I trust the camera light meter).

You're probably right - I know very little about metalworking beyond having picked up a few things (such as hardening objects by heating and then dunking in cold water). Annealing does make things more flexible as I've seen it used to treat brass parts in order to make them easier to roll to shape (detail overlays for a model).

Eh? I didn't say that, it was Offertonhatter!

I think Leica are another firm trading on their history, rather than what they're doing now. I cannot believe that anything they make could beat a K7 and a set of DA Ltds.

It shouldn't be too hard to make a steel (or titanium, if you can get hold of a bit) plate to the same dimensions, then swap the hardware from the aluminium one. You'd probably need a saw, a pillar drill to get the holes accurate, a bench vice, and a hammer to form the bends at the edges. If you know anyone with a decently equipped workshop they should be able to knock one up in a couple of hours tops, including painting.

You could also connect a lanyard between the original camera strap lug and the clip hook on the strap, as a safety line in the unlikely event of the aluminium wearing right through.

Another idea - how does aluminium respond to annealing? I've hardened stainless steel tweezer tips before now by holding them in a blowtorch flame (with pliers!) until red hot then dunking in water, after a few such passes they're much less prone to bending. I realise aluminium is prone to melting but I'm not sure if it can be heat treated?

The wonderful part (for me at least) is that you could pick up any of these old cameras and providing you understand the basics of photography you'd be able to use it. The ES in particular looks so similar to the KM/K1000.

Talking of using them, how do I go about using a Super Takumar lens on an ES II? Bear in mind that while I'm competent with a KM I've never used anything earlier, and I have an ES II along with a Super Tak 35mm f3.5 here that I'd love to have a go with.

Yep, that was the one. Problem is, while I can follow things like "unscrew the front element group, swab the fungus off with vinegar, polish clean and reassemble" I'm not quite up to the standards set by that chap! I tried flooding the mechanism with lighter fuel (my usual approach to un-jamming cameras) but it didn't seem to make any difference.

I might keep an eye open for a scruffy but working silver one and swap the parts, I realise having it professionally sorted out will probably cost more than the camera would be worth!

I picked up a black ME Super for £13 last week. Unfortunately while the meter works and it isn't jammed the shutter doesn't seem to want to cock - it just winds and winds. Is this a simple DIY fix? I might actually think about having this one professionally sorted as it's pretty tidy otherwise (aside from a missing winder cap) and the black versions are more sought-after.

Weirdly if I leave it for a while then wind on, it'll cock and fire. Try to wind on again immediately and it won't play!

Talking of Soviet Leica copies (are they copies? They were probably made from captured German tooling...) does anyone know of a site covering them?

I'd quite like to get hold of a 1930s-ish 35mm rangefinder, and while the genuine Leicas and so on are horribly expensive now there seem to be good numbers of Russian '50s-made from pre-war tooling copies around. I'm just not sure what's a copy of what, which are the best, what to look out for, etc. At the moment a FED-2 is quite tempting, or am I just being daft and should I put the money aside to await a good K 50mm f1.4 for my KX?

Pentax do seem to be oddly classless. I say oddly as they have never made cheap mass-market SLRs, even their models aimed at beginners have been well screwed together (look at the MV1) with price tags to match and the DA Ltd range has prices to make professionals wince. But we just don't seem to brag about them. Could it be that thanks to the quality of older Pentax lenses there's every chance of the photos taken with your £550 prime being embarrassed by ones taken with a thirty year old lens bought for £8.50?

You should see the reactions you get when the boot of your car contains:

Saws
Tree loppers
Gauntlets
Shovels
Axe

Yes there is a valid reason. If I'm carrying that little lot it's because I'm part of the setup crew for a motorsport event and may need to convert an overgrown mess back into a usable route!