To be fair, at an airshow there is usually plenty of light!

I was surprised by how far I could stop down and still stay at 1/2000 for fast jets.

You can buy very good headphones which don't share your music with the surrounding area - look at KOSS "Plug" ones for example. They produce better sound quality than the cheap leaky ones supplied with all devices too!

I have done the "glancing at the back of a film camera" on numerous occasions, it's just too much of a reflex now.

I also thought it showed something I've come to realise of late - there is no single technique which makes a good photo. Some of the genuinely stunning photos of historical moments are technically awful, but still manage to get the atmosphere across perfectly.

They tell you how their tame pros take photos. Now, I know an experienced pro who to me has some odd ideas about photography - he seems to teach that shutter speed is the most important thing whereas I've always worked on the principle that aperture is everything with shutter speed following on to get the exposure right. Evidently it works for him just as f8 and a shutter speed to suit works for me in most outdoor situations. I've also found people shooting at f2.8 all the time just because the lens can do it - again, seriously odd to me as I only go up there if the light is rubbish!

The most useful advice I can give anyone with a new camera is to get out there and play with it. Also look at online image galleries and when you see a shot you like read the EXIF data tab to see what settings they used. Once you've got depth of field understood then you're technically capable of taking genuinely stunning pictures, you just need to find the compositions.

The Auto mode works very well on these - you just set the shutter to the sync speed, set the aperture and ISO, dial in the same values on the top of the flash while checking the distance to subject is within what the flash can deal with, and shoot. The flash's own metering will measure the light and set the output for a good exposure.

Buying the Pentax dedicated adapter didn't seem to do anything for mine, luckily I didn't pay much for it and the cable works with a standard shoe adapter.

I find a Discovery has an unusual calming effect. Suddenly everyone wants to let you go first and has a strange reticence about getting too close even though you haven't been remotely aggressive.

I'm at something of a loss as to how forcing people into the path of oncoming traffic can have any safety benefits (assuming that's what you mean by "pinch points")!

I love the ones which are a cheapskate little lump in the middle of the carriageway. They're narrower than the track of a Discovery so you just straddle them without noticing!

The K 300mm f4 will be worth good money if you do decide to let it go - they don't come up very often. Personally I'd hang onto it unless you really need the money.

It isn't hard to do that though. I know I like to fit a single prime to a camera and then go walkabout with just that kit. It's rather liberating and you shoot whatever that lens brings you.

Can a 120mm lens be useful in an area renowned for landscapes? Yes - you just shoot studies of rock formations and buildings. That's just one example.