Dangermouse

Joined: 25th November 2009

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Dangermouse
I've never done any experiments with it but I would wonder if it changes with the mode you select (for those cameras with action/landscape/macro/etc)?

Comment by Dangermouse posted on How does camara decide which AF point to use? at 07/01/2011 - 21:08

Dangermouse
Yep, that sounds about right (all the envelopes I have quote a Warwick PO Box).

I really don't see them discontinuing it. I don't know any other high street retailers who still sell slide film and I doubt it's a huge cost to them to keep in stock.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Boots Slide Film- Do they still process it? at 07/01/2011 - 21:06

Dangermouse
bretti_kivi wrote:
silly question: when prepping metal for paint, what grade wet & dry to use? it's the base of the lamp and it was obviously too well done (I think it was 800?) because at one point I was going to polish. Then it turned out it is stainless and alu, so polishing won't look right.

It's intended to be high-gloss blue (2 coats primer, 3-4 blue, 3-4 gloss lacquer). So I think 180 should be enough....

The third coat of blue crazed after I'd sanded some of the imperfections out. Then it turns out I can simply scrape the paint off with my fingernail. OK; time to re-do.

Bret
I can only comment from the perspective of having resprayed some alloy wheels (the paint is still attached after two years and a fair bit of mud, so I must have got it right). I used fairly coarse paper to smooth the surface and rough up the original paint, then a guide coat of primer to check the finish followed by more sanding, more primer, and finally the top coat. After that and the silver rim paint were applied (body coloured centres with silver rims) I gave the whole thing a couple of good coats of clear lacquer and left it to dry for a day or two before refitting.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Another pointless thread at 07/01/2011 - 21:02

Dangermouse
Yep, the liquid you use for Zippo and similar lighters. It's pretty volatile stuff so evaporates quickly, but leaves a slight residue which will help lubricate the mechanism.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Would like to get an MX, go for cheap used or serviced? at 07/01/2011 - 17:28

Dangermouse
Hardgravity wrote:
Well I'm halfway through a first aid refresher course, it's amazing how much I remember!

But you still don't stop bleeding from the head by tying a knot in the neck!
Damn, that's where I keep going wrong!

My theory of first aid: Keep the red stuff inside by any means. If they're making a lot of noise then it means they are breathing. Look at the quiet ones first!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Another pointless thread at 06/01/2011 - 22:21

Dangermouse
I don't think it's the aperture so much as the rest of the lens. The 28/2.8 isn't as good as the 28/3.5, but they're completely different designs. I'd imagine Pentax looked at the older K 28/2 and decided there was no way to update it for the M series, hence the 2.8.

The 30mm's sale price was most likely boosted by its rarity - I know K series glass seems to go for a premium now even when it's something which is a great lens, but not a huge improvement over the M series (such as the 55/1.8 compared to the 50/1.7). That said, I have a weird enthusiasm for the 55mm as the field of view is just a bit more useful on digital for allowing you to stand at a safe distance from subjects in low light.

Just waiting for the inevitable slew of ME Supers with 50/1.7s listed for £200 BIN, from people who don't realise that the lot in question reached that price solely on the rare lens!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on K 30mm f/2.8 at 06/01/2011 - 17:33

Dangermouse
TOZZA27 wrote:
I stand corrected - whilst historically it was the Olympic I am a believer in the conspiracy theory that the Titanic was in fact the damaged/repaired Olympic that was lost off the Grand Banks.

Age is a terrible thing Matt - although it could be the alcohol or the medication - lol

Tony
Can't be - the two ships had slightly different designs (Titanic was possibly slightly longer and had some promenade decks enclosed) and the mini subs exploring the wreck have found that every part number on her matches those on the Titanic drawings. It'd be one impressive insurance fraud to change all the cast-in part numbers on every marked component of a ship without any of the workforce involved saying a word...

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Another pointless thread at 06/01/2011 - 17:15

Dangermouse
Interesting - I have an S-M-C Tak 135/3.5 and a K 120/2.8 (along with the significantly more common M 135/3.5) but have never managed to snag one of the f2.5 versions. I quite like the 120mm as it's compact, fast, and produces pleasant images. Possibly a little soft wide open as it was apparently designed for portrait use, but stop down a bit and it's very sharp. Not bad for £65 from a proper camera dealer!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on M and K series lenses at 06/01/2011 - 15:39

Dangermouse
On mine I unscrewed the baseplate and put a good squirt of the stuff into the shutter mechanism, which is between the winder shaft and the mirror box. That plus a bit of gentle prodding with a fine screwdriver of anything I could find caused the camera to unjam and drop back into working order. It isn't always successful but it can be worth a try as the fluid should just evaporate rather than leaving a sticky mess for the professional repairer to deal with.

I wouldn't try it on something you paid good money for, but this ME was only £5 or so and I thought it'd be good for situations where I don't fancy risking anything more valuable. It then turned out to be an Italian market one (has a chrome disk on the front next to the lens mount) so has been replaced by a battered MV1 for the same job!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Would like to get an MX, go for cheap used or serviced? at 06/01/2011 - 15:23

Dangermouse
sorted78 wrote:

I've been looking out for one of these for a while, as I have a Super Tak 135/2.5 with the 'inferior' optical formula, which I've been very pleased with. Any good tips on picking one up for a song?
I think you must mean the Takumar Bayonet 135/2.5? The Super Takumar has an excellent reputation and eventually spawned the K series version.

If I ever see one for £60 I'll be biting the sellers hand, arm and torso off to grab it!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on M and K series lenses at 06/01/2011 - 11:47

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