All Forum Comments
Comment by ChrisA posted on k5 af adjustment at 30/10/2011 - 07:33
The P in P-TTL is generally thought to stand for 'Pre'. There's a pre-flash, which bounces off the subject and comes back. From that, the amount of 'actual' flash required is calculated, so that the right amount of light is sent in the main flash. Hence two flashes are needed.
P-TTL is a pain when taking pictures of animals and many people. The pre-flash often makes them blink, and the eyes are half shut for the actual flash.
More details in this article on Wikipedia.
Comment by ChrisA posted on TTL v p-TTL at 29/10/2011 - 21:49
You'll probably want a better tripod now...
Look at the Redsnapper range...
I use it with a Slik AF 2100 ball head, which was £50, also about 20 years ago, and that's as good as ever too. With a really heavy weight on it, the whole thing does give slightly as you release the weight, but it's not hard to manage.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Lenses to keep, lenses to let go at 28/10/2011 - 23:24
Keep the DA55-300. Consider it the Littlema replacement for the Bigma when travelling light.
I certainly shall not be selling the 55-300 now. Excellent advice there.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Lenses to keep, lenses to let go at 28/10/2011 - 19:14
Just to jump back, MF lenses tend to have a hard stop at infinty, AF don't.
The 18-135 is the only one I've ever had that doesn't.
Edit: or do you mean exactly at infinity?
Edit2: actually, my FA 50 1.4 has a hard stop which corresponds exactly to the infinity mark. My others seem to go a bit beyond.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Infinity focus on 18-135 at 28/10/2011 - 13:56
How about this idea for auto-AF adjustment: would it work? 1: The camera autofocuses normally, then switches to liveview and focuses using contrast detect. 2: The difference in AF position between the two is then calculated by the camera and used to work out how much AF adjustment is required for that lens.
Comment by ChrisA posted on Automatic AF Microadjustment? at 28/10/2011 - 13:53
Not anymore we don't
It reminds me of a game they play on another forum I visit occasionally, where they have a thread even more pointless than our pointless thread.
It consists of nothing more than people posting consecutive numbers, the challenge being to get to a high number before a mod comes in and resets it to zero.
I'm sensing you guys have actual lives though, so I'm not expecting that game anytime here soon
Comment by ChrisA posted on 28mm SMC-A F2.8 at 27/10/2011 - 17:45
Mechanically fine too. Focus ring smooth and nicely damped, aperture clicks up and down as it should.
Cosmetically, I thought it was perfect too, until I came to take the pictures. There's actually a rub mark on the barrel, where it seems to have once had someone's name written on it (not mine!!). It's faint - you have to get the light right to see it, and I'd honestly never noticed it before. I've done my best to show this in the last two pictures - as you can see in the other shots that show that part of the lens, it's pretty hard to spot.
Apart from that, there's not a mark on it that I can see.
Having looked at some recent eBay sales for this lens, I was going to ask for £65 delivered, but with this mark I think that would be too much.
Front and rear caps included, as shown. The front one's silver 'Pentax' paint is a bit worn in places, and the rear one is Tokina branded, but I have a spare Sigma one if you prefer!
I'll also throw in a 49mm Jessop-branded circular polariser. I don't have any pictures of it, but I'll take a couple if you need me to.
So: £45 delivered in the UK. Open to offers.
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I describe and photograph things as accurately as I can, but if I've missed something that materially affects the deal then I'm more than happy to take it back and refund you. And if I've cocked up you shouldn't pay for my mistake so if it came down to it I'd pay the postage both ways. Local collection in person would be fine.
Comment by ChrisA posted on 28mm SMC-A F2.8 at 27/10/2011 - 13:04


Is there any way of checking the shutter count?