Yesterday late afternoon/evening was the first outing with my newly acquired FA*28-70mm f2.8. High ISO is probably not the greatest asset of the K20D, but I tried my best anyway. The first photos are of the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, the last two of Baklandet and Elgeseter Bridge near the Nidaros Cathedral. All the photos were shot hand held, I could possibly have benefited from having brought along a tripod...

1. ISO 1600 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/Nidarosdomen.jpg[/IMG]

2. ISO 1600 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/Nidarosdomen-2.jpg[/IMG]

3. ISO 800 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/Nidarosdomen-3.jpg[/IMG]

4. ISO 800 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/Nidarosdomen-4.jpg[/IMG]

5. ISO 800 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/Baklandet.jpg[/IMG]

6. ISO 800 f2.8
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/bjolester/ElgeseterBru.jpg[/IMG]

Exactly! I have successfully changed the light seals on my beat-up Spotmatic, but I would not even think about a DIY service attempt on my MXs.

Thank you all for your advice! I have no experience with UWA on crop sensor other than the wide end of the kit lens, so it is very interesting to read your comments and views on UWA lenses!

I believe there is much truth in your assumption about 16:9 vs 4:3.

Bjørn

I had originally planned to save money for a DA*16-50mm f2.8, then by chance I got the possibility of purchasing three FA* lenses for a good price, including the FA*28-70mm f2.8. Right now I am thinking that maybe this lens can become my new "standard zoom"?

I do almost 100% of my photography outdoors in nature. I like the combination of going for walks and exploring nature, and practicing photography. For landscapes I prefer using either a K28mm f3.5 or a Sigma 24mm Super Wide. For birding and other far away objects I use the Tokina AT-X 80-400mm. I also bring along the DA 18-55WR if the weather is bad. What do you think about the following lens combination?

Wide: 24mm prime (and/or DA18-55WR)

Normal: 28-70mm zoom

Tele: 80-400mm zoom


What will I loose by not having a DA 15mm or a DA 12-24 for my intended use?


Regards
Bjørn

Thank you Algi! Those manuals contained all the information I was looking for

Bjørn

I have purchased this lens, and picked it up at the post office today. Is there a manual for the 28-70mm to be found somewhere? My main concern is the zoom function. How does it work? Can the zoom be used fully manual, or does one have to use the zoom motor engaged at all times? I am using it on the K20D.

The lens is very heavy, I might have to start going to the gym on a regular basis if I am to use it a lot Otherwise it is a thing of great beauty!

Thank you for your advice Kris!

I have turned down the LX offer, and will for now put my money on getting my MXs serviced. The KX could be an interesting option in the future. The size and the robustness of the Spotmatic appeals to me, and the KX seems to be quite close in design, and may give me a similar "feel".

Bjørn

Thank you Graham! I have read a lot of good things about Harrow Technical on this forum, I might very well end up using them.

Bjørn

Thank you all for great advice, and in such short time!



The main reason for me in wanting to have a functional film SLR body is to have a fully manual camera, in direct to opposition to my main camera the K20D, which is really a "computer" in disquise

Thank you for pointing out the importance of availability of spares. That is a strong argument for investing in the MXs.

In Norway a full CLA of an MX (replacing all the internal/external foam and sealings, as well as general cleaning and adjusting) will cost in the area of GBP 250-300 This price estimate is from the official Pentax service workshop, where they have a high level of competence. The technicians there are really brilliant - but expensive. Maybe I should send my MXs to Finland for CLA?

Many good arguments for the MX, in other words.

I currently own two MX bodies, which I have not gotten around to having serviced (the light seals are sticky, and need changing). I now have a possibility of buying an LX for a good price. But after talking to the main Pentax workshop here in Norway, it seems as if it will be very expensive to do a full CLA on both my MX`s and indeed on an LX (if I decide to purchase one). Is it worth it, I ask myself?

I also have an old Spotmatic, which someone gave me for free, and I used Jon Goodmans kit to change the light seals myself. The Spotmatic now functions very satisfactory, and the light seal fix may be all it needs to function well for a long time - hopefully!


Back to the LX: Is it easier to service than the MX? I know that the MX has internal foam seals and foam seals around the mirror box that deterioate in much the samme manner as the light seals between the body and the back part. Ideally one should change all these foam seals in the MX, and that is not a DIY project and very expensive done professionally here in my country. Is the LX different from the MX in this respect?

All I want really is an SLR to use with my K28mm and my other PK bayonet lenses and have fun. Should I buy an LX for a good price?