Providing you are within the distance of the guide number 11ft at F5.6 and 100ISO it should be ok. However, when using anything other than Green mode, you can boost the flash output. I run mine at +0.3 or +0.7. Goto Fn and select flash, then turn rear dial to set flash exposure compensation. Works well for me.

Thanks! I like the result too!

Actually I have my bag on too! Its a sling shot so its behind me.

Very nice - exposure spot on - I might have left the bag out the shadow!

I like what you have dons and it is sufficiently different.

This is my B&W and cropped conversion:

I did consider a crop, however it would have to be a 'vertical panoramic' to get the elements in that I want. Interestingly, the colour, to me, is very close to what I remember as the trees are all very green from lichen. Also, I felt that the intense green gave my son a very tree like - almost wood-elf feel.

I will try a B&W conversion - I wonder what the green channel would look like !

Thanks! I try to be a bit different - Children offer such inspiration!

I had to be quick, but I agree, though at F8 or F11, the shutter speed might have been too slow and I didn't want to push the ISO. I have applied a little unsharpen mask, to see if that helps.

I have corrected as suggested, is this better?

I wanted to slightly over expose to keep the shadow detail which is the subject of this photo, hence the +3 compensation.




Thanks for your comments!

This is my first photo posted here and I wondered what you thought. This is as is from the camera, no cropping





Danson Park, ISO100, F5.6 1/80 (with +0.3 compensation), WB set to daylight. Taken with Sigma 18 to 200mm at 18. No filter and camera held to my eye.

I agree and a top of the range printer that can do A3. Oh and a professionally designed wesite if you don't already have one.

If I was doing wedding then the two DA* are a good bet (you will need the f2., however, remember that you don't want to be changing lens all the time so you may well need two bodies (K20D as main with K10D as backup!). Also a good supply of betteries and the a very good flash such as the Sigma EF 530 DG SUPER or the Pentax AF-540 FGZ if you dont already have one of these.

I have the K10D and like you I wanted more creative controll and not scene modes. I made the jump from a MZ5n and haven't looked back. I have not had any experience with the K100D but I would suggest that the K10D would provide you with greater longevity and it has the added advantage of SDM support (with firmware version 1.3) so all the top glass comming out will be fully supported and it is fully sealed against dust and rain which the K100D is not. I think it is worth the extra money.

Because I mainly shoot in JPG, I want to get the look I want right in camera - post processing on JPGs reduce the quality. Currently I wouldn't have the time to process all the images I take if I took them in RAW. When I need to, I use RAW (Hay, that dedicated RAW button works for me!). I very rearly have to do any sharpening post processing - partly as I am mostly printing at 6x4 with the occational print at A4.

That one caught me out too when I first got my K10D! Took me about 50 'yellow' shots to realise what was going on!