All Forum Comments
Comment by art posted on Lense Compatibility Chart at 07/01/2006 - 15:25
Hi Mike,
I experienced a similar "problem" with my *ist D. The first time I noticed the lack of functionality of the camera's thumb wheels was while trying to change shutter and aperature settings.
To make a long story short, I found if the battery grip switch was in the "ON" position, the thumb wheel control seemed to default to the battery grip leaving the camera wheels unfunctional. Turning the battery grip off, everything returns to normal. Maybe naively, I assumed this was an operational feature to isolate control to the chosen point of use (althought the shutter works from either point, regardless of whether the grip is on or not).
I'd be interested in knowing if this is a problem or part of the functional design.
Al
I experienced a similar "problem" with my *ist D. The first time I noticed the lack of functionality of the camera's thumb wheels was while trying to change shutter and aperature settings.
To make a long story short, I found if the battery grip switch was in the "ON" position, the thumb wheel control seemed to default to the battery grip leaving the camera wheels unfunctional. Turning the battery grip off, everything returns to normal. Maybe naively, I assumed this was an operational feature to isolate control to the chosen point of use (althought the shutter works from either point, regardless of whether the grip is on or not).
I'd be interested in knowing if this is a problem or part of the functional design.
Al
Comment by art posted on Sticky thumb wheel problem. at 31/07/2005 - 20:43
Hi Anna,
Good question, an aspect of the *ist D I am also curious about.
I am using rechargeable batteries in all 8 positions.
With the batteries fully charged, I can usually get a full day's shooting done to the limit of the card (1GB). Without the battery grip, the camera batteries do not seem to last proportionately as long. The camera will not function with the batteries in the grip alone; the set in the camera body must be in place.
Using the LCD to review shots seems to deplete the batteries exceptionally quickly (especially if deleting the "duds"). I have found that if you get the low charge indication, by shutting down and giving the batteries a little rest, they seem to return with some functionality, usually enough to finish getting the images wanted. Also, in low light situations, switching to manual focus helps save a little power as the AF lense isn't continuously "searching".
When the batteries have indicated low charge, using a small hand held meter, the batteries will still test "good" with the voltage seemingly only down a couple of tenths max. I assume this is a fail-safe level to protect the data side of the camera although the batteries would be strong enough to fire the flash or focus the lense, etc. When testing, all batteries test evenly, indicating a simultaneous draw of power.
After a recharging cycle is complete (and the batteries have cooled), I rotate the battery position (grip to body, body to grip) every time. Although the testing would indicate the batteries work together, I remain apprehensive there isn't a primary secondary relationship between the sets.
Overall, I am pleased with the camera and the battery life (camera & grip) compared to my wife's P&S. As part of the "prep" routine, before going out shooting, all batteries are routinely charged. For an emergency, I also carry a spare set of alkaline AA batteries to swing into play if needed (a luxury not afforded with the P&S).
Thanks for providing the opportunity to share and I remain curious as to what others have found.
Al
Good question, an aspect of the *ist D I am also curious about.
I am using rechargeable batteries in all 8 positions.
With the batteries fully charged, I can usually get a full day's shooting done to the limit of the card (1GB). Without the battery grip, the camera batteries do not seem to last proportionately as long. The camera will not function with the batteries in the grip alone; the set in the camera body must be in place.
Using the LCD to review shots seems to deplete the batteries exceptionally quickly (especially if deleting the "duds"). I have found that if you get the low charge indication, by shutting down and giving the batteries a little rest, they seem to return with some functionality, usually enough to finish getting the images wanted. Also, in low light situations, switching to manual focus helps save a little power as the AF lense isn't continuously "searching".
When the batteries have indicated low charge, using a small hand held meter, the batteries will still test "good" with the voltage seemingly only down a couple of tenths max. I assume this is a fail-safe level to protect the data side of the camera although the batteries would be strong enough to fire the flash or focus the lense, etc. When testing, all batteries test evenly, indicating a simultaneous draw of power.
After a recharging cycle is complete (and the batteries have cooled), I rotate the battery position (grip to body, body to grip) every time. Although the testing would indicate the batteries work together, I remain apprehensive there isn't a primary secondary relationship between the sets.
Overall, I am pleased with the camera and the battery life (camera & grip) compared to my wife's P&S. As part of the "prep" routine, before going out shooting, all batteries are routinely charged. For an emergency, I also carry a spare set of alkaline AA batteries to swing into play if needed (a luxury not afforded with the P&S).
Thanks for providing the opportunity to share and I remain curious as to what others have found.
Al
Comment by art posted on Battery Grip at 19/07/2005 - 06:20
I have an *ist D and I can say it works exceptionally well with the Tamron XR Di 28-75 lense. Also, I have a couple of AF Sigma lenses (including a 170-500 APO) the results of which I also find wonderful wih the *ist D.
I had the lenses prior to the aquistion of the *ist D and believe the metering of this camera performs more reliably the my MZ-S.
As to the lenses, I have to admit, I have purchased most of my lenses used (except for the Tamron and one Sigma) and have found it is tough to find Pentax lenses (save for some older primes) in the used market. Even when purchasing new, the offering of Pentax lenses seems "thin" compared to the third party offering. I recall, when purchasing the Tamron, I did look at a comparable Pentax lense (it was a standard one they were offering as part of a "kit" --can't remember the model) and purchased the Tamron even though it was a few more dollars. The Tamron just seemed to feel better and, for me, seemed to offer a better "brightness" in the view finder.
The majority of my lense collection are the older manual focus style (both zooms and primes). I have found that these also work very well on the *ist D after setting the function to accept lenses other than "A" in the menu and selecting the manual focus setting.
I was able to purchase the *ist D at the same price as the *ist Ds and wanted the "D" for the compatibility with the CF card and the fact it has a PC socket for remote flash (although my local camera shop says they sell a lot of conversion "kits" for the other makes which fit the hot shoe).
Overall I'm very pleased with the camera and find the fully automatic functioning to perform admirably.
Al
I had the lenses prior to the aquistion of the *ist D and believe the metering of this camera performs more reliably the my MZ-S.
As to the lenses, I have to admit, I have purchased most of my lenses used (except for the Tamron and one Sigma) and have found it is tough to find Pentax lenses (save for some older primes) in the used market. Even when purchasing new, the offering of Pentax lenses seems "thin" compared to the third party offering. I recall, when purchasing the Tamron, I did look at a comparable Pentax lense (it was a standard one they were offering as part of a "kit" --can't remember the model) and purchased the Tamron even though it was a few more dollars. The Tamron just seemed to feel better and, for me, seemed to offer a better "brightness" in the view finder.
The majority of my lense collection are the older manual focus style (both zooms and primes). I have found that these also work very well on the *ist D after setting the function to accept lenses other than "A" in the menu and selecting the manual focus setting.
I was able to purchase the *ist D at the same price as the *ist Ds and wanted the "D" for the compatibility with the CF card and the fact it has a PC socket for remote flash (although my local camera shop says they sell a lot of conversion "kits" for the other makes which fit the hot shoe).
Overall I'm very pleased with the camera and find the fully automatic functioning to perform admirably.
Al
Comment by art posted on Problems using *ist DS with 3rd party lenses?!? at 13/02/2005 - 01:21
Try this link, I believe the information you need is available as a "PDF" download from the list.
http://www.pentax.ca/support/manual_download.php
Good luck!
Al
http://www.pentax.ca/support/manual_download.php
Good luck!
Al
Comment by art posted on Pentax Z-1 Manual at 17/01/2005 - 01:43
I took my MZ-S to the Pentax Canada facility for a warranty look at the meter and (as mentioned in another message) they suggested the rewind be looked at. They promised a week and delivered right on schedule. I came away feeling that I had been treated well, all questions were answered with honesty and generally felt that these people had went out of the way to support the product, the brand and myself as a customer.
Comment by art posted on Pentax service turn round at 04/11/2004 - 19:59
A couple of people I know (semi pro) have returned to film after initially embracing the digital product.
The one fellow in particular shoots sporting events, stating that with electronics of digital, just because you trip the shutter, the action may not have been frozen as the data is written to the card, resulting in lost opportunity...but, the joy of digital is that you knew you'd lost it almost immediately.
To him, the failure rate on the action shots with film was significantly less than with the digital camera.
The one fellow in particular shoots sporting events, stating that with electronics of digital, just because you trip the shutter, the action may not have been frozen as the data is written to the card, resulting in lost opportunity...but, the joy of digital is that you knew you'd lost it almost immediately.
To him, the failure rate on the action shots with film was significantly less than with the digital camera.
Comment by art posted on Phazing film out, digital taking over... at 05/09/2004 - 13:31
Another folow-up on the MZ-S rewind...
Erratically, over the last few months, my camera failed to rewind the roll completely. A couple of times I caught it and had the roll removed in the dark box at the photo store (and a couple of times missed it). Of course, after one of these incidents, the next roll funtioned correctly leading to a thought that the problem might have been related to some external factors.
Most recently, the camera failed on two consecutive rolls. As part of the diagnosis, the the manual electronic rewind button was also deployed, but this did not make a difference. A further examination (once the film had been removed) showed that the right hand take up roll failed to release during the rewind function, holding the film tight.
The camera went back to Pentax service where they replaced some of the film handling mechanism (as an extension of the original warranty request). The camera is now back in service (and it might just be me) but it seems to be smoother than ever from a film handling perspective.
BTW, the service folks at Pentax did a bang up job of getting the camera in and back out in just a little under three days.
Erratically, over the last few months, my camera failed to rewind the roll completely. A couple of times I caught it and had the roll removed in the dark box at the photo store (and a couple of times missed it). Of course, after one of these incidents, the next roll funtioned correctly leading to a thought that the problem might have been related to some external factors.
Most recently, the camera failed on two consecutive rolls. As part of the diagnosis, the the manual electronic rewind button was also deployed, but this did not make a difference. A further examination (once the film had been removed) showed that the right hand take up roll failed to release during the rewind function, holding the film tight.
The camera went back to Pentax service where they replaced some of the film handling mechanism (as an extension of the original warranty request). The camera is now back in service (and it might just be me) but it seems to be smoother than ever from a film handling perspective.
BTW, the service folks at Pentax did a bang up job of getting the camera in and back out in just a little under three days.
Comment by art posted on MZ-S grinding noise? at 16/01/2005 - 19:03
Just a follow-up.
I got the camera back from Pentax and the rewind "noise" is back to a perceived normal level. I am not sure what the technicians did, they suggested it only required an "adjustment" but is definitely an improvement over what I was experiencing.
Al
I got the camera back from Pentax and the rewind "noise" is back to a perceived normal level. I am not sure what the technicians did, they suggested it only required an "adjustment" but is definitely an improvement over what I was experiencing.
Al
Comment by art posted on MZ-S grinding noise? at 29/09/2004 - 04:55
While browsing (and dreaming of my next "toy" requirement) found this site and thought it might be of interest to some users of this forum.
http://www.pentaxcanada.ca/digital/digital_slr/da_lenses/compatibility.php
Best wishes to everyone for 2006
Al