Rain... sunset you mean?

[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/_G205786ps2.jpg[/IMG]

Used LR2 to get the base so played with colours and took the blue out of it, didn't played with the WB only set it to the right value, removed CAS and also played with the curves and added some viggeneting.

Only used in CS4 different layer modes, unsharpening, romeved the spot and noise and fine tuned the curves.

if you want I can upload the LR2 only file, if someone is interested that is...

Edit: edited the text

If you're inexperienced it's a great book, it explains a lot and with the background information you need as a beginner.

I have it and use it instead of the manual now, it's atleast better to read then the strange Japanese translation sometimes

Were did the Tokina 12-24 came, it's the same lens qua optical design you see so if that one ended high we don't need to say much more

Don't know if this also was your question but the difference in size
10.8MB PEF - 57.4MB TIFF
croped them 50% and get
9.27MB PEF - 27.2MB TIFF
The difference comes that PEF saves alot more then only the image information, it also holds camera information wereby TIFF only holds image (pixel) information.

The 10.8MB PEF is just as good as the 57.4MB TIFF, you afterall make it from that file
You can also use compresion with TIFF, if you save the file you can selected that option. ZIP saves the most space, do keep in mind that not all programs can handel compressed TIFF's.

For my file handeling I do the same as Peter.
JPEG is good enough for almost everything and it sure is a lot smaller.
I let my computer repack PEF raw to DNG raw, I save about 2MB or 3MB á photo sdoesn't seem much but if you have over 4000 photos it's quite a lot so worht the wait I think.
DNG might also be better supported by PSE7 then PEF, with CS4 it handels it almost like a PSD file so you can do everything with it.

Just looked ad the pentax AF540 flash and it says it wants 330V DC, so the amps can't be high.

Like I said I'm no wizzkid but you don't need to deliever the right amps right, that flash takes what it wants/needs and nothing more???

Hi welcome to the forum

What fun would it be if you got the perfect shot everytime

Welcome to the forum

Clarky that doesn't seem to do so much, it's simply a more powerfull flash then the build-in one and you can see much more about it

Like said before, that isn't a lot of money.
Maybe you can get lucky on ebay or the likes.

Maybe this is something http://www.currys.co.uk/martprd/store/cur_page.jsp?page=Product&source_id=aw&sku...
It's the same thing as the pentax af360 but with the samsung on it.
Don't ask me about the seller though but it's in your price range.

If you know the voltage and the amps that are on the contacts of the connector, you should be able to make something you can plug into the net that feeds your flash like a battery pack. You will still need the batteries inside the flash I believe.

I'm no wizzkid in electronics but you will need an AC to DC converter to convert to atlernating curretn from the net to direct current. batteries deliver DC not AC so that's why.
The battery pack for the pentax use 6 batteries and one battery gives you 1.5v so that's 9 volt in tottal. All you need now is the amps or the watt it needs and how much is on each contact of the connector and your done.

It isn't that hard so I think that there are products aviable like these and since they are simple I don't think they would cost much.

I'm sure someone here can help more if you want to make one yourself, probable you can use a cellphone charger as a starting point if the volt and the amps are alright but I believe they're 9 volt.

Ps. don't blame me if you fry your flashgun okay

Just have been thinking about Amin's question.
Isn't it posible to instead of connecting a batterypack you can connect a transformator with the same voltage and amps, that way you basicly boost your flashgun with power from the net.
Don't know if it will work but I don't see why it shoudn't :