Where can we all get some of that stuff your on

If you lift your right leg in the air at the same time that you use the apply all correction it leaves the other 20 lenses set to their original setting

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That gives you a very handy 120mm, which I used to prefer on film over a 135mm because it doesn't flatten the features as much.

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That's a bit of a mess. Use sandpaper it's cleaner and doesn't remove any metal.

Check carefully after sanding that the aperture info is being correctly transmitted.

Also with any lens check that you aren't getting too much diffraction at say f/16

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I can only speak about my camera the K-5. It has a menu setting 'APPLY ALL' that stores a setting that it uses for any lens not stored separately in it's database.

Usually with M lenses you will only be interested in one main lens possibly a macro so that setting will normally be stored. Most other lenses will be OK if their value is close to that one, there is quite a bit of tolerance with adjustment values i.e. +4 +5 +6 +7 are almost the same. Otherwise the 'APPLY ALL' setting will have to be changed for each lens. I only have one lens that is completely different to most of the others and with 28mm or 35mm lenses I let the DOF compensate for any errors.

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No apologies needed hopefully we've given you some info that you can make use of.

I've never drunk red beer

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Thanks, I don't want it, but if you sold it separately it could be useful to someone wanting OS(SR) in video. Worth buying just for that.

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Does the OS work on the lens or did Sigma just not remove the switch?

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Hi, you do have to set an AF adjustment value for MF. It's because it controls the beep/green light trigger position. To make matters worse the beep (MF or AF) gets triggered in two positions, similar to DOF. One going into focus and one going out and to make matters even worse like DOF it's affected by distance. That's why AF can never work properly A magic wand would be more use.

Pentax users are very DIM and don't realize this CIF has been around since the 80's and they still don't know how to set it up and use it properly

All you can do with any TC is try for a compromise. It's usually better to focus slightly beyond the subject and then let the AF make it's adjustment. Try a few shots at your normal bird distance say 7M at +10, +/-0 and -10. See which is closest and then try a few bracketed shots around that figure untll you get the most hits. Eg. -9, -8, -7, -6 Often DOF will mask most of the errors. Beer bottles are a good target.

I found the DA1.4x TC harder to set up than the 1.7x Adapter on the DA*300mm.

I can't remember any user resolution test shots on any forum where the lens has actually been in focus. A focus rail is the only way to get spot on focus. This site explains why....

http://www.slrgear.com/articles/focus/focus.htm

The Novoflex rail they use for left/right adjustment is the one I use for focussing testing. It allows about 6 inches back and forth.

Live view focussing isn't very good either because the lens is stopped down and there is a big DOF.

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My point is relevant. He's marked the Pentax KP down because the screen can't be flipped out all the way, but with other makes it doesn't matter. Level playing field is all I'm after even though I think stores reviewing cameras is absolute nonsense due to their vested interest. They can hardly give an independent review when they want to sell you the product.

EDIT: Some interesting reads in the comments section of the TCSTV Youtube page, particularly about what Pentax themselves said about the design of this camera. Also people complaining about TCSTV bias in this review plus missing the point of the camera.
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Strange! He seems happy that the Nikon D500 screen doesn't swing out for selfies .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fC5jQgc_-w8#t=212


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