There's no difference Gary's used uncalibrated colour space anyway......
So maybe that's what you like

Nice shots Gary.
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Slightly different lens (50mm f/1.4 ) but this recent thumbs up is well worth a read by all Pentaxians.....

http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2017/07/two-mor...

The original 43mm was considered superior to the 50mm's.

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It's amazing how these Chameleon Dogs are able to change colour to blend in with their surroundings

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I really like the USB2 extension cables that have a coloured LED on the end. Makes it easier to find and tells you if the computers connected to the mains. Also easier to see in the dark. My USB3 cables don't have them. I must see if they are available in USB3.

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Wimps!! Brooklyn Beckham walks round carrying a Hasselbald

He also has a girlfriend named Beer!

That's what I call butch!

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Looks an MX on a piece of string

LV doesn't look at the camera settings. It just opens/closes the aperture in 2 stop steps to get the proper picture on the LV screen at least on the K-5. I think other marques will allow the aperture to be selected. (Maybe the K-1 does? )

Still not much use unless you have some sort of micro adjustment on the lens focus to get within +/- 7mm. A focus rack is easier, but you still have the problem that it will probably only be correct at that one distance.

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Another massive problem with LV focussing is that the lens isn't wide open it gets stopped down so the image has a big DOF

Anyone who ever did printing with an enlarger knows that you have to open the lens fully to get exact focus even when using a grain magnifier.

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No it isn't It can be quite good if you focus on something that causes moire on the screen, but it still isn't accurate. See....
http://www.slrgear.com/articles/focus/focus.htm

Summary at end...
"While the overall results were much better than with the other focusing methods though, the worst-case example was still 22% high, well within the "unacceptable" range. Given that, manual focusing via even a highly-magnified Live View display simply isn't reliable enough to use for lens testing."

And he used a powerful magnifying glass as well

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You can't be sure that the RED X is exactly over the detection point, or that it doesn't lock onto something nearby, that's why you need to focus on something parallel to the camera back. It's also easier with a tripod with a focusing rack.

Most of my tests are MF based on the BEEP. There's usually a beep moving in towards the target and another beep moving backwards into the target with about 25mm between the two. You have to decide which one to use. I normally set it so that I catch the beep moving into the target. +/- 7mm is usually possible.

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