Nice One!

Thanks for that info... maybe it's changed since.
Some filters do have strange stuff on them so it could
well be that.

Edit: This was in response to the prsjnb post.
John's slipped one in whilst I was typing

There is a Pentax version of the RF-602.... I've got 2 sets
one fires the camera by wireless the other fires the brolly
flash. Just use 2 separate channels.

The actual name on mine is HAVE RF-602 just a rebadge by
Yongnuo Review

Black band at bottom at 1/180th usually OK at 1/125th
safe at 1/90th

There is a mod on Flickr I think to disable the wake
up on the Nikon version to use on a Pentax. It's also
mentioned on this forum somewhere.

Hi Adrian, I've got a 70-210mm 19AH that I bought new at BIN price off a dealer on ebay about 2 years ago. It was still in the original wrapping inside the box, he didn't even remove the wrapping for the photos. He used to get a lot of NEW Tamron stuff and I got the impression that he had a proper camera shop besides ebay, because most of his stuff was slow moving stock at BIN prices. I've just looked on ebay but he's not sold anything for over 3 months so he's probably sold all he wanted to sell.

I've used this lens ONCE and it's complete with case, caps and original box If your interested you can have it for about what I paid for it which was £125 and I'll pay the RMND. You would have to get an adapter separate because I have other Adaptall lenses (that I don't use)

It does seem very sharp, but I normally use a 55-300mm or DA*300mm and 210mm isn't long enough for me.

Payment by Bank Transfer would be preferred.

I would expect a split screen to possibly be an old design and should work OK.

I might make my own Ground Glass Screen got some GePe glass slide mounts somewhere

Edit: John you need to read the Rockwell page from 5 paragraphs down :

============quote=============================
"Oddly, these modern screens get no brighter
when you're using a lens faster than f/2.8.
Try it: put on an f/1.8 or other fast fixed
lens and flick the depth of field button.
You'll see no change in anything until
you stop down to about f/2.5!"
==============================================

I'm calling it a T Stop John because the lens is at f/1.4 but the light coming through is at f/2.5 so that's the actual transmission at the viewfinder.

Just found this on Ken Rockwells site about it (from 2007).

Edit: This probably applies to film cameras with bright screens as well.

Would be interesting to hear from someone with a Katzeye?

I should have said I used a K20D perhaps the K5 screen is different or it may just be the size of the f/1.2

I'm more concerned that the viewfinder image is almost 2 stops
darker than it should be Some people may be bothered that
the DOF they see through the viewfinder is equal to a "T" Stop
of f/2.5

It's correct and we know from previous posts that with an f/1.4
lens the equivalent of f/1.8 - f/2 actually gets recorded on the SD card.
So even though you can't see it the DOF on the Jpeg might be about f/2.

What concerns me is the loss of light through the viewfinder.
I've always said DOF preview buttons were nothing other than
a gimmick anyway.

It takes about 2 mins to do the test. I sold my FA 50mm f/1.4 last
year because I couldn't see any point in having it. I used a
A 50mm f/1.4 for my test.

Some important information for you f/1.4 and DOF addicts

I mentioned above a special screen that Canon have for use at f/1.4 to f/2.8. It's been out for several years now.

Well it seems Pentax need to make something similar

Don't believe me put an f/1.4 lens on your camera, don't use 'A' set f/2.8 on the lens. Press the DOF button and it should go darker by 2 stops unfortunately it doesn't and you might as well have an f/2.8 lens on the camera because that's all the light you can see

The limit is actually about f/2.5

This makes MF quite a bit harder than it should be with an f/1.4 lens...... strange you didn't notice that