Looks like Starcliks

In that linked to set there's a SUN cover of Max Clifford and
a Private Eye cover of two NI politicians ...... I can't imagine
either publisher giving up their Copyright looks like they've
been pinched

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I like wee cameras

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All the Expodisc info is on....

http://www.expoimaging.com/product-detail.php?cat_id=1&product_id=2

It's very accurately made.

Another alternative is the Whibal Card
http://michaeltapesdesign.com/whibal.html

Possibly Pentax could sell something similar.

All lenses vignette and it's useful to know by how much.

"Adjusting the white balance manually" is on page 208 of the K-5 manual. The same page should be in the K-7 manual as well. You have it correct above, but it would be handy to be able to check it. It would also useful for flash... very often warm wallpaper and furnishings throw the flash CT setting out. There is a "K" setting in the WB menu that lets you store 3 colour temperatures. I normally try 4500deg.... 4200deg.. 3900deg and pick the most neutral.

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Can't remember why I took this one. I've posted
it here before. I was trying out the excellent little
Cosmicar_28mm f/2.8 at the time.




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I'd like to see the ability to check exposure and colour balance by reading in the camera from a grey card shot (or Expodisc). Reading from the JPG would suffice.

Just a centre reading averaged over a group of pixels would do, but it would be better if it could also be moved to the corners to check vignetting.

I do this at present by sending a shot to a PC using an Eye-Fi card, but being able to to do it from the camera would be quicker.

This an an actual shot at f/2.8 with a 28mm lens.
You can see the vignetting ....
It also shows the Pentax WB is spot on just 001 to much blue.




I would also like to see bracketing in Manual mode.

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It's important not to use Tungsten light for calibrating.
Bright daylight or a good daylight bank of LED's is better.

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Your Tamron will already focus to 1X (1:1) which means it will
cover a subject 23.7mm x 15.7mm. On the K-5 you can also
safely crop. A 25mm tube (if my rough calcs are right)
would give you 1.25X or a subject field of 19mm x 12.5mm
not a big gain. 12.5mm diam. flower instead of 15.7mm
flower

This article may be of some interest about how the effective
FL and aperture change with macro photography. IOW the aperture
you set on the lens isn't the aperture in use. Nikon actually
display the correct aperture. The article is a bit misleading
in parts such as discussing the format. 1:1 is 1:1 on APS-C
and FF in other words the format doesn't matter. You even
see people saying the 1:1 macro lenses are only 1:1 on FF


This is a crop of a K-5 + Tokina 90mm macro at f/2.5. I've only
cropped it because it won't reduce to 800 pixels wide
properly. The flowers are tiny.




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With any lens 1:1 macro will always be 2X the focal length
sensor to lens and also 2X the focal length subject to lens.
It will always lose 2 stops. (Factor of 4).

1:2 would need 1.5X FL and lose just over a stop
(Factor of 2.25).

The PDF manuals for Pentax tubes should give the
info. for each separate tube.

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Ha! Ha! .... I thought this was the comedy channel for a minute

Don't you even know the basics of photography? .......

Extension tubes and bellows increase the focal length and
lose light due to the aperture no longer being what is was
for the shorter focal length.

The old rule of thumb with a 50mm lens used to be a stop
an inch. So 2 inch of tubes to give 1:1 would lose 2 stops.

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