Your best tips for a DSLR beginner?
Posted 11/01/2011 - 20:28 - Helpful Comment
Link
Lisa,
You've done two things right already: buying a Pentax, the Kr has been very well reviewed and should yield some excellent pictures; and joining this site which is frequented by people who know lots about equipment and photography and who can take good pictures. You will receive friendly and constructive advice. Do obtain a couple of manual focus lenses, if they have k-mount then they will fit, it's one of the great things about owning a Pentax
Most important: take lots of pictures, level and sharpen them using a cheap (free?) software program and post them here so we can admire them and perhaps nudge you in the right direction towards gradual improvement.
You've done two things right already: buying a Pentax, the Kr has been very well reviewed and should yield some excellent pictures; and joining this site which is frequented by people who know lots about equipment and photography and who can take good pictures. You will receive friendly and constructive advice. Do obtain a couple of manual focus lenses, if they have k-mount then they will fit, it's one of the great things about owning a Pentax
Most important: take lots of pictures, level and sharpen them using a cheap (free?) software program and post them here so we can admire them and perhaps nudge you in the right direction towards gradual improvement.
Best wishes,
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Posted 11/01/2011 - 20:33
Link
Wow - what wonderful advice from everyone, this is such a helpful, friendly and active forum! Yay!
Posted 11/01/2011 - 21:23
Link
lisali wrote:
Thanks!
Pentax yes, ricoh..no... ricoh has k-mount lenses but they do not play well with Pentax's af screwdrive slot...
SteveEveritt wrote:
But yourself a cheap Pentax M lens say a 28mm or 50mm you will learn more in a day using it than you would in a month with a DA etc. There are loads on Ebay for very little money. Have fun.
Thanks for the tip - does "M" there stand for manual focus? Also, with Pentax lenses, can you buy ANY Pentax lens from any old Pentax camera, i.e. are the mounts all the same?But yourself a cheap Pentax M lens say a 28mm or 50mm you will learn more in a day using it than you would in a month with a DA etc. There are loads on Ebay for very little money. Have fun.
Thanks!
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Posted 12/01/2011 - 01:48 - Helpful Comment
Link
lisali wrote:
Wow - what wonderful advice from everyone, this is such a helpful, friendly and active forum! Yay!
It's great here. Wow - what wonderful advice from everyone, this is such a helpful, friendly and active forum! Yay!
My additional advice is to never hesitate to take a photo. If in doubt press the shutter. I've got no end of cool shots that were hesitations out in the field, but looked great when I loaded them into the computer and view at a decent size. Or you see something in the pic you didn't notice while out shooting.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 12/01/2011 - 05:20 - Helpful Comment
Link
And from me:
Ten tips to get you started -
* Work through the manual with camera in hand - explore every setting, option and menu. The camera doesn't bite - get to understand it.
* Av (Aperture priority) will let you set the size of the aperture to control both the amount of light reaching the sensor, but more importantly the 'depth of field'. The latter is probably more important with macro images. The camera then sets the shutter speed accordingly. Av would be the most popular setting used.
* Use the lowest ISO you can (100 or 200), to keep your images as noise free as possible. Although with the K-r, if it is anything like the K-x and the K5, you will have some latitude.
* Lower ISO means that your shutter speed will be slower though - you stated that you wanted to get to grips with the relationships between the variables... This is one of them. Therefore, this becomes a balancing act between a shutter speed that is too slow for handheld work, and an image that is noisier by virtue of higher ISO. Of course, if you have a tripod, shutter speed is less of an issue in this respect.
* If the K-r sensor is anything like the one on my K-x, beware of blown highlights (even in RAW). Dial in -0.5 Ev, more if you're out in bright conditions.
* Read your manual to understand some other settings you can choose to protect highlights and shadows in your images. Be aware that if you activate these, your minimum ISO will not be 100 - it will increase to 200 (your camera will be fine with this though).
* Know where your camera is focusing. Better still, tell it where you want it to focus: Either do it manually or use the centre spot option for autofocus.
* Learn how to post-process your images: recover highlights, apply contrast, sharpen, add fill light, apply curves, and all the rest of the black art.
* Shoot in RAW - the extra latitude this gives you when playing with an image is valuable.
* Take pitchas!
Ten tips to get you started -
* Work through the manual with camera in hand - explore every setting, option and menu. The camera doesn't bite - get to understand it.
* Av (Aperture priority) will let you set the size of the aperture to control both the amount of light reaching the sensor, but more importantly the 'depth of field'. The latter is probably more important with macro images. The camera then sets the shutter speed accordingly. Av would be the most popular setting used.
* Use the lowest ISO you can (100 or 200), to keep your images as noise free as possible. Although with the K-r, if it is anything like the K-x and the K5, you will have some latitude.
* Lower ISO means that your shutter speed will be slower though - you stated that you wanted to get to grips with the relationships between the variables... This is one of them. Therefore, this becomes a balancing act between a shutter speed that is too slow for handheld work, and an image that is noisier by virtue of higher ISO. Of course, if you have a tripod, shutter speed is less of an issue in this respect.
* If the K-r sensor is anything like the one on my K-x, beware of blown highlights (even in RAW). Dial in -0.5 Ev, more if you're out in bright conditions.
* Read your manual to understand some other settings you can choose to protect highlights and shadows in your images. Be aware that if you activate these, your minimum ISO will not be 100 - it will increase to 200 (your camera will be fine with this though).
* Know where your camera is focusing. Better still, tell it where you want it to focus: Either do it manually or use the centre spot option for autofocus.
* Learn how to post-process your images: recover highlights, apply contrast, sharpen, add fill light, apply curves, and all the rest of the black art.
* Shoot in RAW - the extra latitude this gives you when playing with an image is valuable.
* Take pitchas!
Posted 12/01/2011 - 09:04 - Helpful Comment
Link
learn about metering, how to spot meter, reading your meter & how to adjust shutter & aperture setting.
if you want a large depth of field say for landscape then use a small aperture setting which is a high number f11 for example. for portraits you need a larger aperture setting f2.8 for example. but metering enables correct exposure in the first place hence learning to meter...
finally have fun
if you want a large depth of field say for landscape then use a small aperture setting which is a high number f11 for example. for portraits you need a larger aperture setting f2.8 for example. but metering enables correct exposure in the first place hence learning to meter...
finally have fun
PPG Wedding photography Flickr
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Posted 12/01/2011 - 10:32
Link
Always carry a spare battery and make sure it's fully charged - nothing is more annoying than a camera conking out half-way through something you really want to shoot.
Joining the Q
Posted 12/01/2011 - 10:38
Link
Use a tripod often.
Unless the action is your main interest then concentrate on aperture priority for starters.
Take lots of pictures and post them for constructive criticism. Study others and work out what you like about them.
Unless the action is your main interest then concentrate on aperture priority for starters.
Take lots of pictures and post them for constructive criticism. Study others and work out what you like about them.
Posted 12/01/2011 - 10:55
Link
hefty1 wrote:
Always carry a spare battery and make sure it's fully charged - nothing is more annoying than a camera conking out half-way through something you really want to shoot.
And don't leave your memory card at home, in the pc like I've done twice
Always carry a spare battery and make sure it's fully charged - nothing is more annoying than a camera conking out half-way through something you really want to shoot.
Posted 12/01/2011 - 11:34
Link
Actually I'd make a point to always carry at least one spare memory card!
(And as Alan says make sure you leave it in the camera!)
If you have a reasonably Library nearby, you can usefully browse their photography / processing books. DSLRs are IMHO much more flexible than compacts a fairly quick flick through can introduce techniques to play with. Flickr has groups for just about any obscure technique it seems so you can read tips & see relevant photos there too. (Not all the photos phosted in a group are relevant though!)
As many posts above have said, play with the camera & take lots of pictures. I'd recommend trying the different manual settings individually to begin with (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focus) The photos may not be brilliant, but you should learn more about the options.
(And as Alan says make sure you leave it in the camera!)
If you have a reasonably Library nearby, you can usefully browse their photography / processing books. DSLRs are IMHO much more flexible than compacts a fairly quick flick through can introduce techniques to play with. Flickr has groups for just about any obscure technique it seems so you can read tips & see relevant photos there too. (Not all the photos phosted in a group are relevant though!)
As many posts above have said, play with the camera & take lots of pictures. I'd recommend trying the different manual settings individually to begin with (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focus) The photos may not be brilliant, but you should learn more about the options.
Mike
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
Posted 12/01/2011 - 19:18
Link
How to get the best out of this site:
join a Pentax meet and see the people and gear face to face.
Ask lots of questions
Don't be afraid to post photos and receive constructive criticism
Look at for bargains in the sales section
Enjoy yourself
Dave
join a Pentax meet and see the people and gear face to face.
Ask lots of questions
Don't be afraid to post photos and receive constructive criticism
Look at for bargains in the sales section
Enjoy yourself
Dave
Posted 12/01/2011 - 23:49
Link
Blythman wrote:
remember to take your pc with you
hefty1 wrote:
Always carry a spare battery and make sure it's fully charged - nothing is more annoying than a camera conking out half-way through something you really want to shoot.
And don't leave your memory card at home, in the pc like I've done twice Always carry a spare battery and make sure it's fully charged - nothing is more annoying than a camera conking out half-way through something you really want to shoot.
Posted 13/01/2011 - 00:40
Link
petrochemist wrote:
Actually I'd make a point to always carry at least one spare memory card!
(And as Alan says make sure you leave it in the camera!)
And a spare charged battery. I've been caught out before.
Actually I'd make a point to always carry at least one spare memory card!
(And as Alan says make sure you leave it in the camera!)
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 13/01/2011 - 00:43
Link
DrOrloff wrote:
Use a tripod often.
... to add, if you have a tripod with a quick release plate, leave the plate on the camera and it makes for a good camera protection when placing the camera on all manner of rough but stable surfaces, for long exposures.Use a tripod often.
In low light I love placing the camera on the pavement/road/walls/lamposts/etc/etc to take long exposure shots.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.
1432 posts
17 years
Chester,
U.K.
Pentax lens reviews here, ignore the values but the comments are pretty much spot on.
Pentax database here.
Enjoy your journey
Davex.
Please feel free to play with any images I post.
My flickr: link