Wide angle flash

aliengrove
Posted 20/08/2010 - 07:46 Link
I need to get a flash for my first ever commissioned work, and I want one that can get to 10mm. It seems 18mm is the limit as advertised for all the flashes I have looked at (Metz, Pentax, Sigma) but does anyone know of any flash or attachment for a flash that will work with a Sigma 10-20? Or failing that, some advice on using slaves to get full coverage of both internal (complete coverage up to 10 meters or so) and external (fill-in} shots at 10mm?

Rgds,
Jon
Edited by aliengrove: 20/08/2010 - 07:49
flossie
Posted 20/08/2010 - 09:28 Link
From experience at some shots I took with the DA12-24 - ignoring the fact that metering doesn't working - the angle of the flash (AF-360) is way too narrow even when diffused. I'd look at Lighting the scene rather than flashes if even coverage is required, otherwise use an off-board flash(s) manually metered to highlight specific areas.

Strobists would know more, though.
Still shooting in the dark (literally and metaphorically)...
Anvh
Posted 20/08/2010 - 18:07 Link
I wonder if a sto-fen or other diffusers would work.

The metz flashes goes down to 12mm with the wide angle, the question is, is that on 135 format or APS-C? I think it's in 135 format so it would be 8mm for APS-C, that should be wide enough.

btw, I don't see the Metz 48 on their site anymore but I do see a Metz 50, is that a new flash?
Yep it is, the Metz 50 is the replacement for the Metz 48, don't know what they have changed besides the guidenumber.
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Edited by Anvh: 20/08/2010 - 18:09
gartmore
Posted 20/08/2010 - 18:50 Link
Take a look at the Sto-fen web site, there is an example of a picture taken with a fish-eye lens. The sto-fen Omnibounce is a simple and effective piece of kit and gives quite a pleasing light in circumstances where you have to use direct flash.

My wife remarked, "You paid £15.99 for that? Could you not just have used a Tupperware box?"
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
aliengrove
Posted 20/08/2010 - 19:04 Link
Thanks for that, looks like a Metz 50 and a Sto-fen omnibounce might be the way to go
Edited by aliengrove: 20/08/2010 - 19:04
thoughton
Posted 20/08/2010 - 19:06 Link
aliengrove wrote:
Thanks for that, looks like a Metz 50 and a Sto-fen omnibounce might be the way to go
Will combining them work? I had always thought you achieved maximum spread with the stofen by pointing it straight up (the 'bare bulb' technique that strobist.com talks about)?
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
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Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Edited by thoughton: 20/08/2010 - 19:06
Anvh
Posted 20/08/2010 - 19:22 Link
thoughton wrote:
Will combining them work? I had always thought you achieved maximum spread with the stofen by pointing it straight up (the 'bare bulb' technique that strobist.com talks about)?
The whole stofen becomes the light source, but because the front is illuminated directly that would be the brightest so a wide flash angle should make the sides lighten up more than using a narrow angle.
Still the problem is though if you point it up you're using the side as direct light and the brightest part is bounced from the ceiling so you probably will cut the flash power to 1/8th (if not more).
If you're indoors, it might be better to simply bounce the flash from the ceiling, might be more efficient.

Btw stofen/omni bounces only preform as advertised in close spaces, out side the light has no where to bounce off from so it won't soften the flash light.
A softbox type diffuser will work out doors because they increase the source where the light is coming from.
Here is a read about it (apparent light size) link
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Edited by Anvh: 20/08/2010 - 19:30
pentaxian450
Posted 21/08/2010 - 01:07 Link
Anvh wrote:
The metz flashes goes down to 12mm with the wide angle, the question is, is that on 135 format or APS-C?
It's 135 format.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
Anvh
Posted 21/08/2010 - 07:45 Link
Thank you Yves, the it's wide enough for the sigma 10-20
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
gartmore
Posted 21/08/2010 - 08:38 Link
Anvh wrote:
thoughton wrote:
Will combining them work? I had always thought you achieved maximum spread with the stofen by pointing it straight up (the 'bare bulb' technique that strobist.com talks about)?
The whole stofen becomes the light source, but because the front is illuminated directly that would be the brightest so a wide flash angle should make the sides lighten up more than using a narrow angle.
Still the problem is though if you point it up you're using the side as direct light and the brightest part is bounced from the ceiling so you probably will cut the flash power to 1/8th (if not more).
If you're indoors, it might be better to simply bounce the flash from the ceiling, might be more efficient.

Btw stofen/omni bounces only preform as advertised in close spaces, out side the light has no where to bounce off from so it won't soften the flash light.
A softbox type diffuser will work out doors because they increase the source where the light is coming from.
Here is a read about it (apparent light size) link
Stefan, you keep banging on about this and I have to say you are wrong in your constant assertions about the Sto-fen Omnibounce.

I have one AND I have read the instructions. The correct way to use them at close quarters is to tilt the head at 45 degrees. At longer distances and outdoors you use it straight on. Despite what you claim about them, outdoors, the flash gives an entirely different and rather pleasing light.

Maximum flash distance is reduced by 2.5x.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Dangermouse
Posted 21/08/2010 - 14:13 Link
With regards to wide angle flash coverage, surely this is one of those times when a 35mm lens is a 35mm lens, regardless of whether it's on a film or an APS-C sensor body? I know I get very dark corners from a flash intended to work with a 35mm lens if I use it with an 18mm. Add the cheap diffuser I mentioned elsewhere and all is well, even with direct flash.
Matt

Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
gartmore
Posted 21/08/2010 - 15:03 Link
Correct! The Sto-fen actually covers a 15mm lens on 35mm film
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Anvh
Posted 21/08/2010 - 17:08 Link
Dangermouse wrote:
With regards to wide angle flash coverage, surely this is one of those times when a 35mm lens is a 35mm lens, regardless of whether it's on a film or an APS-C sensor body? I know I get very dark corners from a flash intended to work with a 35mm lens if I use it with an 18mm. Add the cheap diffuser I mentioned elsewhere and all is well, even with direct flash.
It's the angle of view that matters like you thinks.
The newer flashguns do show the coverage for APS-C format but the older flashes don't have that support so will show the coverage for 135format but those numbers will be off with a factor off 1.5

gartmore wrote:
I have one AND I have read the instructions. The correct way to use them at close quarters is to tilt the head at 45 degrees. At longer distances and outdoors you use it straight on. Despite what you claim about them, outdoors, the flash gives an entirely different and rather pleasing light.
Sorry Ken but they don't work outdoors for the reason that I've said, if not show me a photo that makes a difference because I don't see a difference when I use the Sto-fen outdoors.

On the lumiqeust site you can read about the different flash modifiers and the principals they work with link

This what they say about their UltraBounce (sto-fen/omni-bounce).
Quote:
Accessories such as our UltraBounce are not shadow softening devices themselves since they are not materially larger than the flash itself. These accessories are actually light distribution devices. By spreading the light over 180° it can be bounced back into the frame by nearby walls and ceilings. In relatively small rooms they are very effective at providing soft, even illumination. However, if used in large rooms or outdoors they have virtually no impact on shadow softness. Obviously it is pointless to illuminate 100° more than you are photographing if there are no surfaces to bounce the light back into the frame.

Spreading the light wider than the scene being photographed results in SUBSTANTIAL light loss
Comment Image

UNLESS

There are nearby surfaces (walls/ceiling) to bounce the light back into the scene.
Comment Image
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
aliengrove
Posted 21/08/2010 - 22:43 Link
Gosh it's all getting very scientific!

I like the idea of the Metz 50, especially if it will cover 10mm on the K7. With the flash used straight on, will there be any problem of the shadow of the lens appearing in the frame, as it does with the onboard flash at 10mm? Also, surely you can get round the problem of the diffuser reducing the power of the flash by using ev compensation?

I'm in Washington at the moment, so tomorrow will go and see if I can find the flash and diffuser.

Thanks for the info, I am a complete novice with flash, even though years ago I had a dedicated one for a Ricoh KR10 which was fun.

Rgds,
Jon.
Don
Posted 21/08/2010 - 22:47 Link
aliengrove wrote:
Gosh it's all getting very scientific!

I like the idea of the Metz 50, especially if it will cover 10mm on the K7. With the flash used straight on, will there be any problem of the shadow of the lens appearing in the frame, as it does with the onboard flash at 10mm? Also, surely you can get round the problem of the diffuser reducing the power of the flash by using ev compensation?

I'm in Washington at the moment, so tomorrow will go and see if I can find the flash and diffuser.

Thanks for the info, I am a complete novice with flash, even though years ago I had a dedicated one for a Ricoh KR10 which was fun.

Rgds,
Jon.
yep...complicated... I'd just grab whatever flash unit I had kicking around, point it up, stick a white plastic/styrofaom/paper cup on it and go....
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.

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