Which Flash with Manual Lens on istDS

Hi Folks,

I've adapted a istDS DSLR to use all my old M42 lenses set to manual.

Presently using an AF200S fully manual - 200 ISO, 1/180 sec, setting f stops from camera-to-subject distance (guide no. approximately 26?). Auto settings on the flash seem to be a no-go, with full discharge every time. (The istDS manual shows zero compatibility with this flash).

Is there an hot shoe flash that allows Auto Thyristor settings with the above set-up?

Hi Mac

Nice choice in the istDS; it was my first DSLR and I still have it, though I haven't used it in a while.

The istDS supports TTL, and according to Bojidar Dimitrov, the TTL compatible flashes are AF400T, AF280T, AF220T, AF200T and the two ring flashes - see http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/flashes/TTL/index.html

I have a AF200T, which also has the advantage of 1/2,1/4 and 1/8 power settings in manual.

Hope that helps.

for cheap it's hard to beat the vivtar 2800 (can be had used for $10-25.00) .... any manual flash with an a setting that has the sensor on the flash should work fine.
vivtar 383 and 385 ($30-60.00 used) are fine IF you make sure thiey are newer (avoid ANY made in japan, china is ok) and use the AUTO THYRISTOR functtion.

i think Mac's problem is the ttl and p-ttl won't work with manual lenses... is full burst or manul settings... and he's looking for auto..
any auto thyristor flash with the sensor eye on the flash unit will allow him to set up the camera and the the flash will cut out when the flash thinks the exposure is right... believe it or not, this is often just as reliable as p-ttl..
I have recommended vivtars as I use them with wein peanut slaves for off camera multi light set ups and they work very well for the price!

Man, how I love this forum!

Thanks so much guys, I'm getting just what I need.

Don ol' Buddy,

The hunt for the Vivitar 2800 starts now. (You were spot-on with the "for cheap" .

Or Chinese 383, 385's if no luck.

Cheers and happy snappin'

just remember the old vivitar 283's and 385's made in japan can have extremely high synch voltages issues bad for your camera..... the "made in" info is stamped on the bottom of the flash right in front of the hotshoe... on the chinese units... and I've used those ones with my ds2, k10 and kr no problems...

this guy is asking too much but the're out there for under $25.00
link

One of the Vivitars would be ideal but if you ever come across an Achiever TZ-250, it's worth a look. I'd never heard of the brand before but bought one in the Canaries when I found I needed an external flash. Can't remember the guide number (still have it -- can't find it) but they're powerful enough for a normal-sized living room. The voltage is low enough to use with a DSLR and there's a switch to configure it for all the major brands, including, of course, Pentax. The head swivels vertically and they came originally with a set of coloured filters and a wide-angle gizmo. Hate to say it but the auto function gives P-TTL a run for its money. I imagine you'd pick one up for a fiver, if that.

Al

Thanks Don.

I have a bid in on an old new-in-box 2800. Do these have destructively high voltages too?

One write-up said that is why they can be had so cheaply.

It comes with its manual so I'll try to compare tolerances with my istDS manual before I fry something.

Found one - in Wichita Kansas - have put in an offer.

Thanks Aero

Good luck, Mac. If you get it for the right price and it's in good condition, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Al

The latest:

Found a Photo Strobe table which measured trigger voltages on a zillion flashes.

The Vivitar 2800 had some 170+volt readings and was not recommended for direct connect to a DSLR.

The seller understood my worry completely and refunded my money prior to shipping.

Don, I believe you use these old war horses as slaves, and they're probably brilliant for that. As would all the old film era thyristors I'd wager.

Al, I have a bid in on an Achiever TZ250 with a 17.5volt trigger, so we'll see how that works out.

Thank you both for your thoughtful input!

I think the Achiever should be well under 17.5 volts. This site gives 0.5V (which can't be right) to 8.5V. I just measured mine and got 5.6V. Should be fine either way.

Al

Feelin' better and better about this flash!

Thanks for the update Al!

I fear there could be a problem. I did some further checking on the TZ250 and it turns out it has "reversed polarity" -- the centre pin is negative rather than positive (should have noticed this when I checked mine).

Several Pentax manuals advise again using this type of flash. Having said that, many internet posters say they have used the TZ250 successfully with the KX and Samsung GX10 (K10D). It also works perfectly with my GX20 and K30.I suppose there's the possibility of long-term damage to the camera but there's little official technical information about this. If you "win" the flash, send me a PM and I'll see you're not left out of pocket by what could have been a bum steer. I plan to contact Pentax next week and try to get some accurate info.

An apologetic Al

Not to worry, Al.

You're not responsible for my impulsive actions.

There are 4 days to go on the auction - and who knows, I could be outbid.

The way I see it, completing a trigger circuit in Thyristor mode shouldn't be very polarity sensitive? Just shorting out a DC contact?

Anyway, please let us know what Pentax says? And if you could ask as well, about mating with a istDS specifically?

Appreciate it!