Which Flash with Manual Lens on istDS


Don

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 16:16
Mac wrote:
The latest:

Found a Photo Strobe table which measured trigger voltages on a zillion flashes.

The Vivitar 2800 had some 170+volt readings and was not recommended for direct connect to a DSLR.

The seller understood my worry completely and refunded my money prior to shipping.

Don, I believe you use these old war horses as slaves, and they're probably brilliant for that. As would all the old film era thyristors I'd wager.

Al, I have a bid in on an Achiever TZ250 with a 17.5volt trigger, so we'll see how that works out.

Thank you both for your thoughtful input!


don't know what to say except the site may be wrong or perhaps, like the 283 or 285, perhaps there is an older model with different voltages, but... BUT every viv 2800 I have EVER owned has been a reliable performer, cheap and useful.... here is one that has fired MANY MANY years worth of images on many different Pentax cameras including the DS2 ((shown)...this one has a warming gel taped onto it for indoor incandescent color balance..)


Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 13/04/2013 - 16:17

Don

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 16:19


and their "D" model (mine is not a d model) is definately low voltage canons are very delicate toys, and fry easily, but pentax are tough that way lol!...
mine says made in japan.. but I see there are varying reports of voltages all over the range for this model, it's been around for a long time... so maybe best to go with the d model to be safe?

just fired ten full power pops on my ds2 and no issues here...
but I'm sorry if I gave you dangerous advice!
Last Edited by Don on 13/04/2013 - 16:47

Mac

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 17:06
Thanks Don,

Will look for a 2800D model.

Just measured my Pentax 200S at 5.78 volts for fun. Can use this non-TTL and non thyristor for now - pretty much as I have to use the pop-up flash with the M42 set-up. The 200S only gives me about one more stop but less red-eye.

Also seems to be dialogue about voltage vs current in the write-ups. Makin' my old head hurt!


Oy! There's a istDS TWO?

HUGE differences between istD and istDS.

Between DS and DS2?

So much to learn - so little brain!
Mac from Montreal

SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.

Don

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 17:13
I think the ds2 was the second from the top model in it's day...
it has an all glass pentaprism... which is a step up from the other ds... I think...
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.

Mac

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 18:00
Don wrote:

it has an all glass pentaprism... which is a step up from the other ds... I think...

Gee, I hope not. One of the reasons I got the DS was for the glass prism - but I may be wrong (wouldn't be the first or last time).

From the write-ups I've seen, pentaprism is always mentioned with istDS, but not with the 100D etc.

Time to get the screwdrivers out?

Nah - too chicken.


Mac from Montreal

SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.

Don

Link Posted 13/04/2013 - 19:37
yep the dl's have pentamirror, the ds and ds2 are basically the same, with the ds2 having a bigger lcd!
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.

Aero

Link Posted 15/04/2013 - 14:37
The whole thing remains a mystery. I spoke to a Pentax technical chap today and, at first, he came up with the standards: "We don't advise you to use any flash not made by Pentax." I quizzed him further and said the trigger voltage seemed OK but the polarity was reversed. He didn't know if this would be a problem and said he'd pass the question on to other technical chaps and get back to me.

I don't have a circuit diagram for Pentax cameras but I would have thought transistor and thyristor circuits simply wouldn't work if the polarity was wrong, particularly at a relatively low voltage. This seems to be the experience of many on the internet, who report certain flashes just won't work with their cameras because of reverse polarity. For some reason, the Achiever works fine on my Pentax and Samsung DSLRs, although they may blow up the next time I try.

The safest options, I suspect, are a) get a Wein Safe Sync or similar gizmo; B) reverse the polarity of the flash's hotshoe. This site shows how to do it. You would get better access to the wires if you could disassemble the body but there's no obvious way to do this and I didn't want to risk cracking the case.

I'll let you know if I hear back from Pentax.

Al
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