What is Aperture

You cant say that one Appeture suits one Shutter Speed. Simply you adjust the apteure to achieve the greatest depth-of-field. You then adjust the shutter speed accordingly. The Shutterspeed at a certain appeture will change dependant on lighting coniditons, etc. Clearly you need to master the baiscs of a camera.

I think this is a wind up guys

A few photo tips.

If you insist on using flash at night then you have to be really high up so that the flash can light up the whole city. At a minimum, try a stepladder but you really need to be higher still. The best flashes are the ones that come free with the the camera as they are very high power like the kind they use in police speed cameras.

Regarding the best exposure for night time, I find that f22 for 1/1000 gives really great images with absolutely no grain whatsoever. Fantastic. You might have to squint a little to see them clearly though.

The aperture is very important for out of your depth of focus. It's a bit complicated so perhaps try reading a good beginners book like "advanced optics for beginners".

Regards
Andy

when would be best to use 1/1000 , if its sunny?

also if i put the shutter speed on says 250 how come it'll flash 125? does that mean i should change it to 125 because it will get overexposed?

Well you could use 1/1000. But with these odds I wouldn't expect miracles. You could also try f7.2 for great composition or Fuji slide film (but remember to keep it in a coolbox). I get excellent results in sunny conditions from a couple of CR2s if they are pushed three stops in the lab. Remember to tell them this when you post them otherwise they'll get wrecked.

Hope this helps
Andy

slide film? isnt that only for slides?

i bought some basic Kodak Max 400 ISO film today (3 pack for $15AUD) and it has the aperture i should use on the side of the box.

when would you use the B (bulb) shutter speed also howcome the numbers 30 ~ 1 appear in orange it says in the manual its because of camera shake then in brackets it says (stow - shutter speed) is that a typo?

you say 1/1000 is good but the other guy (profession James or ething) said 1/1000 would be shocking at night - note i will actually be in the city so there will be more lighting than if i was across the river.

Phat,

As regards the instruction from Kodak, you must follow these exactly, otherwise you might end up with poor quality photographs. I would believe Kodak before I believed James.

Andy

You don't understand Andy.
Both myself and another poster have stated that 1000th of sec will be shocking at night. You need a slow shutter speed 30th and below. Google for City Photos and Phat will understand.

What if you happen to like shocking photographs? For this, 1/1000 would be ideal!

Phat, I'd stick to the recommended advice from the Kodak film box rather than read a boring photography book.

Andy

Right.. about this advice from Kodak. I use Kodak Film always and I tell you know it does not explain anything about Camera Settings.

James,

Phat has clearly stated that his film box has told him exactly what aperture to use when using their film. Do you dare to suggest that Kodak are lying to us?

Andy

maybe uk has a different box to us???

it has a picture with

F16 - for sunlight
F8 - for sun with overcast
F5.6 - for cloudy and darkish and sunny but casting a shadow on a tree

and it says above that "KODAK MAX 400 FILM shutter speed-daylight 1/250 second

Then

F4 - for someone playing squash with the light on
F2 with a personin a dark room with a light above there head on

Above that it says KODAK MAX 400 FILM shutter speed-artificial light 1/60 second
|
___________________________ /

How do i make the numbers 30~1 not flash at night time without puting the flash on?

and what shutter speed should i use if i was across the river loking at the city with not many lights besides the city lights?

would 1/60 or 1/30 be good if i was standing near the buildings taking pictures?

SORRY ABOUT ALL THE QUESTIONS

Phat,

Kodak are absolutely correct, I would always use F4 when photographing squash players with the light on. Excellent advice. Badminton players with the lights off are a little more tricky. Leave this to experts like James.

The boxes we have in the UK/Ireland are probably very similar to your own. They are quite small but packed inside with the film is a 35 page photography manual on correct camera settings. It is very useful and means that I don't need to even think about the settings at all and I still get great photographs. Many of of my photographs have won international camera setting awards.

Keep the questions coming Phat

Andy

thats not fair - is Kodak High definition DX?

thanks for that but u didnt' answer any of my questions lol

Do you actually take photo's of squash players or was that a joke?

Phat,

I must come clean and admit that everything I've posted on this topic so far has been a complete lie. I hope that I haven't confused you any more than you already were. I initially thought the post itself was a joke. My mistake.

However the point of my little joke postings is that there really is no hard and fast rule for selecting a aperture or shutter speed. It all depends on what you are trying to achieve. In general you can use any shutter speed or aperture combination that gets you a properly exposed photograph. Don't be limited to what it says on the film box (yes Kodak do lie!) or people other people tell you, experiment and be free.

In practice, aperture is used to control depth of field while shutter speed controls the dipiction of movement. The exposure balance is like a see saw. If aperture gets bigger, so exposure time must get shorter. I would recommend reading a good introductory book to photography to find out more.

Regarding your specific questions.
Just ignore the flashing light. It is just telling you that light levels are low. For night time shots of the city I would recommend putting your camera on a tripod, turning the flash off, selecting the widest aperture you have (e.g f3.5) and selecting the shutter speed that the light meter suggests. This could well be longer than 1/30th of a second, hence using the tripod.

Regards
Andy