Super-Takamur 50mm f/1.4

bjolester
Posted 12/03/2010 - 09:16 Link
I have a Super-Takamur 50mm f/1.4 fitted on a Spotmatic that was recently given to me. The lens glass is in fine condition, but there seems to be small specs of dust inside the lens. Is this a "normal" phenomenon with the old Super-Takamur lenses? Is it possible to repair the lens?

How can I check if my lens is affected by Thorium pollution/yellowing?

Any information is greatly apprecitated!
Bjørn

PPG
Flickr
Edited by bjolester: 12/03/2010 - 09:22
thoughton
Posted 12/03/2010 - 09:48 - Helpful Comment Link
I wouldn't worry about the dust. Most lenses this age will have some dust in them. Unless there are huge clumps of it it shouldn't have any noticeable effect on image quality.

You can tell if the lens is affected by yellowing by holding it up against some white paper. It will probably look quite yellow, mine does. I have tried leaving it on a window sill for a few weeks but in the pathetic UK sun that didn't seem to have much effect. I then went and bought a UV lamp intending to bathe it for a month or two, but never got round to it. Nowadays I just shoot using the lens and don't worry about it. I don't notice any yellowing in the resulting images, but even if I did it should be simple to correct it in PP.

I did once read a post by someone who sounded like they knew a bit about radioactivity. He said not to worry about using and handling the lens, but perhaps don't sleep with it under your pillow
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
FlickrFluidrPPGStreetPortfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Edited by thoughton: 12/03/2010 - 09:51
bjolester
Posted 12/03/2010 - 12:19 Link
Thank you Tim for your very informative post!

I am waiting to receive my (Interslice) light seals for the Spotmatic, and fix this issue, before I run a film through the camera. I am eager to test the lens.

Bjørn
Bjørn

PPG
Flickr
Hardgravity
Posted 12/03/2010 - 12:44 Link
Hi Bjorn, if the lens is yellowing don't worry just leave it in the sun (in Trondheim!!!), as far as I recall any colouring will fade in sunlight.

If you have a DSLR and want to use the lens, in manual mode, make sure you get an adaptor that focuses to infinity, like this one.

Enjoy the Spotmatic, a fine camera.
Cheers, HG

K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.

Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...

PPG entries.
Dangermouse
Posted 12/03/2010 - 13:50 Link
Small specks of dust are nothing to worry about. The 50mm f1.7 I cleaned fungus out of has rather more dust inside than I'd like (despite using a blower and a soft brush before reassembly) but produces very sharp photos. Providing that it is dust rather than fungus I'd say to leave it alone, fiddling around has the potential to make it worse.
Matt

Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
bjolester
Posted 12/03/2010 - 14:30 Link
Hardgravity wrote:
Hi Bjorn, if the lens is yellowing don't worry just leave it in the sun (in Trondheim!!!), as far as I recall any colouring will fade in sunlight.
In fact, the sun can be seen quite a lot in Trondheim Good to know how to combat lens yellowing if indeed that appears to be a problem with my lens. I need to check the lens further.

I guess I will not dwell any more with the dust issue. There are only tiny isolated particles inside my lens.

Thank you for all the valueable information!
Bjørn

PPG
Flickr
greyhoundman
Posted 13/03/2010 - 16:02 Link
If you can leave it sit somewhere outside for a couple hours each day, it wiil clear better. Wrap tinfoil around the the thread end, and stand it so the sun shines down into the front lens. This bounces back more of the rays, and prevents a possible fire from light concentration. I usually check it every few hours and rotate to keep the sun hitting straight on.

Window glass, especially double pane, stops most of the UV rays you want.
That's why it is so hard, if not impossible to get a suntan through glass.
thoughton
Posted 13/03/2010 - 20:22 Link
Just don't forget about it like I did Left the lens on top of my son's slide in the sun on Saturday morning and remembered it was there at midnight on Sunday!

It was soaking wet from condensation but I let it dry out naturally and it all seemed fine after that.
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
FlickrFluidrPPGStreetPortfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Edited by thoughton: 13/03/2010 - 20:22
bjolester
Posted 14/03/2010 - 23:43 Link
If I were to try to clear the yellowing from my lens with an artificial UV source, would a 1W UV LED flashlight do any good. Or would I need a much more powerful UV light?
Bjørn

PPG
Flickr
thoughton
Posted 15/03/2010 - 01:49 Link
The stories I've read involve bathing it in UV light for several weeks, so I think using a flashlight is going to be quite a hassle.
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
FlickrFluidrPPGStreetPortfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Edited by thoughton: 15/03/2010 - 01:50
womble
Posted 15/03/2010 - 09:54 Link
Yes you need something much more powerful, preferably the sun!

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
whelmed
Posted 15/03/2010 - 12:51 Link
1W isn't enough. When I was looking into getting on of these guys myself I read an article saying that the highish power UV lights work great. You'll have to put it in a box and let it run for a long while. Also make sure it's not one of those bulbs which are painted purple like: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Light-Blacklight-ultra-violet-160-011/dp/B000L9CS32/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1268657282&sr=8-10

As far as I remember, something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-lightbulb-violet-energy-Bayonet/dp/B000L97W74/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=lighting&qid=1268657282&sr=8-5
will work - but I'm not entirely sure if this is a true UV light.
K-5; Siggy 10-20 f4, 30mm f1.4, 18-50mm f2.8, 70-200mm f2.8; Tammy 400mm f4, 500mm f8
Edited by whelmed: 15/03/2010 - 12:51
beachboy2
Posted 31/03/2010 - 15:57 Link
"As far as I remember, something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-lightbulb-violet-energy-Bayonet/dp/B000L97W74/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=lighting&qid=1268657282&sr=8-5
will work - but I'm not entirely sure if this is a true UV light."

That's the sort I found at our local hardware store. Works fine. Just use in regular desk lamp, leave on for several days to a week.
bb2

K5, K20D, Bigma, Sigma EX 105, Sigma EX 10-20, Sigma EX 28-70 F2.8, Sigma Ex 1.4TC,
Pentax 135 F3.5, Pentax 30mm F2.8 , Pentax 50mm F1.7, Pentax 55mm F1.8,
Super Taks: 35mm F3.5, 50mm F1.4, 135mm F3.5, 200mm F4
Vivitar TX 200mm F3.5,Vivitar (Komine)135mm f2.8, Vivitar 2X TC, Vivitar T4 400mm F6.3
Tamron SP 35-80,80-210 F3.8, Helios 44M, Mir 1B 37mm F2.8, Jupiter 9 85mm F2, Chinon 28mm F2.8, 3M-5A 500mm F8 etc etc
bjolester
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:34 Link
How does one remove the yellow tint from photos taken with this Super-Takumar 1.4 lens? I have recently started using Adobe Lightroom, and so far I have found out that reducing colour temperature helps. But I am sure there is more to it than this...

Any help is highly appreciated!

Bjørn
Bjørn

PPG
Flickr
womble
Posted 09/05/2010 - 12:01 Link
In the develop module select the "white balance selector" tool found in the white balance panel. Then find something white (or neutral gray) in your image and click on that. Job done.

If you know in advance you are going to be using that lens, take a photo of something white (e.g., a sheet of paper) in the light you will be using and either set the WB manually in camera or use that to work out the white balance setting needed in Lightroom.

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.

Add Comment

To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



Proudly supporting Pentax User

Samsung Logo Asahi Pentax Logo