SMC Takumar 135mm problem

womble
Posted 14/01/2009 - 17:02 Link
I have a lovely M42 135mm SMC Takumar lens: clean glass, hardly any wear, original front and rear lens caps and metal lens hood. I got it to use with my ES once I realised the SMC taks have a slightly different mount than the previous ones (I have a much older Tak 135mm).

The only problem is the iris is a bit slow to open and close. I guess it has some oil on the blades although I cannot see anything. Is there anything much I can do to improve the situation? Will opening and closing the iris repeatedly loosen it up?

Best wishes, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
GrahamNR17
Posted 14/01/2009 - 17:08 Link
If it's oil (it usually is) then there's nothing you can do about it beyond send it off for cleaning. Depending on what you value the lens at, it'll be worth it or not. Certainly given the financial value of the lens, then it's bin fodder. Personally I'd get it cleaned as it sounds like you've got a really nice one, and a clean will buy you another twenty or thirty years with it
womble
Posted 14/01/2009 - 17:12 Link
It is in pretty pristine condition apart from that so I may well see how much it will cost to get it cleaned.

Thanks, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
GrahamNR17
Posted 14/01/2009 - 17:15 Link
You should probably get it done then. Pristine ones are fetching stupid money on Fleabay. Prepare yourself for it being a hundred quid or more though, but what price an old friend?
hefty1
Posted 14/01/2009 - 17:50 Link
You could always service it yourself..?

Come on! You knew that was always going to be my suggestion.
Joining the Q
gartmore
Posted 15/01/2009 - 08:48 Link
Try this if you dare... I read that a solution may be to place the lens in a sealed metal container alongside a little dish containing lighter fuel and leave for a week or so.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Hardgravity
Posted 15/01/2009 - 08:52 Link
I'm afraid I agree with Hefty!

Go on, get inside and do it yourself.

As for lighter fluid, will that damage the SMC coating?

I'm always wary when using solvents of ANY type near optical equipment, they have a habit of eating things
Cheers, HG

K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.

Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...

PPG entries.
greyhoundman
Posted 15/01/2009 - 12:41 Link
That lens is not really that hard to service. Lighter fluid or what we call Ronsonal is the best to clean with. It will not hurt the glass, but you won't be putting it there anyway.
You have to clean the aperture blades from both sides.

But before tearing into the lens, try this.
Using a toothpick, put just a drop of lighter fluid on the auto pin at the rear of the lens. Let it soak down into the hole. Now work the pin a lot. Maybe do the routine a second time. I've seen where it was the pin and assembly that was binding.
womble
Posted 15/01/2009 - 13:13 Link
hefty1 wrote:
You could always service it yourself..?

Come on! You knew that was always going to be my suggestion.
Yup, I knew you would say that! Do you know how cack-handed I am?

greyhoundman wrote:

Using a toothpick, put just a drop of lighter fluid on the auto pin at the rear of the lens. Let it soak down into the hole. Now work the pin a lot. Maybe do the routine a second time. I've seen where it was the pin and assembly that was binding.
I'll try that first.

GrahamNR17 wrote:
You should probably get it done then. Pristine ones are fetching stupid money on Fleabay. Prepare yourself for it being a hundred quid or more though, but what price an old friend?
Not an old friend, a bad (if cheap -- there had to be a catch) buy. Harrow Technical quoted 40 quid which isn't too bad.

Thanks for all the advice. Any web page links for DIY?

Cheers, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Edited by womble: 15/01/2009 - 13:13
Mac
Posted 15/01/2009 - 13:54 Link
Kris,

Just curious, I have two M42 135mm primes - both Super Takumar's.

One I use for Macro work, the 1:3.5, the other for portarait work, the 1:2.5.

They are both wonderful, but I LOVE the 2.5. They are constructed very differently. This is most obvious when you watch the rear elements while turning the focus rings. The 2.5 reminds me of the 1:1.4 50mm - another beloved lens.

Do you have both versions as well?

Good luck with the cleaning.

Courage!
Mac from Montreal

SP, SPII, SPF, PZ-10, P30, SFX, K110D, istDS, Optio 60, Z-10, H90, RZ10, I-10, f3.5 28mm, f1.8 55mm, f1.4 50mm, f3.5 135mm, f2.5 135mm, f4 50mm Macro, f4.5 80-200 F, f4 35-70, f3.5 28-80, f3.5 35-135, f3.5 18-55, f1.8 31mm Ltd., two Auto 110's, Auto 110 lenses and filters, tubes, bellows, Manfrottos and a sore back.
womble
Posted 15/01/2009 - 14:26 Link
Thanks Greyhoundman, I'll give it a whirl (is there a gulping smiley? )

Mac... I have two too, but different ones to yours. One is either a Takumar or Auto Takumar (I cannot remember which now and the lens is at home and I am not), and the other is a SMC Takumar, f/3.5 version.

I didn't realise that the SMC Takumars have a slightly different M42 mount which the ES needs to make proper use of the Av mode. As I have very few Tak lenses, I was planning to stick to buying SMC versions so that they would work on both my S1a and the ES. I also have the Super Takumar 70-150mm zoom. What a monster, it weights 1.2kg.

Best wishes, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Clarky
Posted 15/01/2009 - 20:57 Link
Kris I have cleaned about half a dozen Pentax lenses, all 50mm primes from Taks to M & A series and have become quite adept at it.

I use a couple of rubber bungs which I have shaped to fit the front and rear elements, and can remove all the elements in a few minutes. Your biggest problem will be keeping dust out of it once its disassembled.
Wear rubber medical gloves when you do it. good luck
Camera:|K-7|
Pentax Lenses:|DA12-24/f4 ED AL|DA35Ltd Macro|FA31Ltd|FA77Ltd|FA50/1.4|F70-210|FA20-35 f4/AL|A*200/f4 Macro ED|A50/1.7|A50 Macro f2.8|1.7xAF adapter|
Voigtlander|125/f2.5SL Macro APO Lanthar|
Sigma Lenses:|EX DG 100-300 f4|2X & 1.4X TC|
Flashes:|AF540FGZx2|RingFlash AF160FC|
Tony-O
Posted 15/01/2009 - 21:10 Link
Hi Kris,As an ex watchmaker i would suggest hairspring cleaner,its even less greasy than lighter fuel and will dry faster.Just do A GOOGLE and you will find some.Tony-O
P.S.Don't breath too much in though,you won't care about dirty lenses!
K7,DA*50-135, 35mmLTD Macro, 21mm Ltd, Voightlaender 58mm 1.4 NOKTON SL,Ricoh GRD,GRX, Zeiss 100mm f2 Makro Planar.Zeiss Ikon ZM,Zeiss f1.5 C Sonnar.

It ain't no sin to take off your skin,and dance around in your bones.Tom Waits.
Edited by Tony-O: 15/01/2009 - 21:13
womble
Posted 15/01/2009 - 21:17 Link
Tony-O wrote:
Hi Kris,As an ex watchmaker i would suggest hairspring cleaner,its even less greasy than lighter fuel and will dry faster.Just do A GOOGLE and you will find some.Tony-O
P.S.Don't breath too much in though,you won't care about dirty lenses!
Sounds good stuff...
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.

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