Pixels or Glass?
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Posted 01/06/2014 - 21:57
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Posted 01/06/2014 - 22:12
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dougf8 wrote:
The problem occurs with old manual aperture lenses which have no contacts at all. You can't use stop down metering unless you scrape of the anodising. I have some old Cosina lenses in which I had to do this.
I think we were saying that a lens that communicates aperture to the camera requires at least that connector to allow control with tubes. Manual tubes will not allow the aperture information to feedback to the camera. So a lens with "A" aperture control will require tubes with contacts. [/quote]That's right, but the body of the lens/tubes provides the return path for the circuit that provides the code to show the max aperture of the lens
Smeggypants wrote:
Mine are Jessops PK/A ones which I paid about £30 for, and they originally had a contact missing so I had to scratch a bit of paint off to get full aperture coupling.
Two minutes work, and they've been perfect ever since. I'll be holding on to them if 'proper' ones are over £100.
That contact isn't necessary as the body of the lens and camera pride the return path for the circuit, the problem with jessups tubes is that they've anodised the body without realising it's used as part of the circuit.ChrisA wrote:
[quote:3496ace15f="dougf8"]Aperture tubes will cost as much as an AF Cosina 100mm.
I hadn't thought of that.. the only ones with all the contacts I could find on eBay is indeed a lot more expensive than I thought.[quote:3496ace15f="dougf8"]Aperture tubes will cost as much as an AF Cosina 100mm.
Mine are Jessops PK/A ones which I paid about £30 for, and they originally had a contact missing so I had to scratch a bit of paint off to get full aperture coupling.
Two minutes work, and they've been perfect ever since. I'll be holding on to them if 'proper' ones are over £100.
The problem occurs with old manual aperture lenses which have no contacts at all. You can't use stop down metering unless you scrape of the anodising. I have some old Cosina lenses in which I had to do this.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 01/06/2014 - 22:14
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McGregNi wrote:
If I'd read it right from earlier, Zooms are the avoided with tubes?
Nigel - go and buy some extension tubes and try them out with a lens you already have. The Pentax M75-150mm does work well with tubes (I have one too!). If you don't like the results - then go and buy a lens, nothing lost.If I'd read it right from earlier, Zooms are the avoided with tubes?
Andrew
Posted 01/06/2014 - 22:24
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Smeggypants wrote:
That's right, but the body of the lens/tubes provides the return path for the circuit that provides the code to show the max aperture of the lens
Absolutely, I've never managed to solder a circuit with a single magic wire yet! That's right, but the body of the lens/tubes provides the return path for the circuit that provides the code to show the max aperture of the lens
http://www.catb.org/jargon/html/magic-story.html
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 01/06/2014 - 22:54
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davidstorm wrote:
Here are few flower images with the aforementioned lenses:
K55 F1.8:

Sigma 105 DG EX Macro:

SMC Takumar 135mm F3.5:

Regards
David
As I said David "Everybody has their own thing". I prefer the older glass to the newer.Here are few flower images with the aforementioned lenses:
K55 F1.8:

Sigma 105 DG EX Macro:

SMC Takumar 135mm F3.5:

Regards
David
I especially like the third with the Tak 135. Hope it's not M42 as I don't get on with them well.
The poppies look a little blown (perhaps the tip of the osteospurmum too) on the saturated colour. I've had that before with red on acer leaves. I think the sensors have a weak spot for not metering reds quite right.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 01/06/2014 - 23:04
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dougf8 wrote:
I especially like the third with the Tak 135. Hope it's not M42 as I don't get on with them well.
The poppies look a little blown (perhaps the tip of the osteospurmum too) on the saturated colour. I've had that before with red on acer leaves. I think the sensors have a weak spot for not metering reds quite right.
Hi Doug, I'm afraid it is M42, but I leave an adaptor with the spring clip removed permanently fixed, so it's as easy as a bayonet lens.I especially like the third with the Tak 135. Hope it's not M42 as I don't get on with them well.
The poppies look a little blown (perhaps the tip of the osteospurmum too) on the saturated colour. I've had that before with red on acer leaves. I think the sensors have a weak spot for not metering reds quite right.
You're right about the reds on the K55 image, they area bit blown, but there's nothing blown on the second one. With reds you have to underexpose quite a lot to avoid any blown areas. The nice thing about the K55 though is that the reds are true, no magenta tints.
Regards
David
Posted 01/06/2014 - 23:08
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davidstorm wrote:
You're right about the reds on the K55 image, they area bit blown, but there's nothing blown on the second one. With reds you have to underexpose quite a lot to avoid any blown areas. The nice thing about the K55 though is that the reds are true, no magenta tints.
Regards
David
Shame for me about the Tak.dougf8 wrote:
I especially like the third with the Tak 135. Hope it's not M42 as I don't get on with them well.
The poppies look a little blown (perhaps the tip of the osteospurmum too) on the saturated colour. I've had that before with red on acer leaves. I think the sensors have a weak spot for not metering reds quite right.
Hi Doug, I'm afraid it is M42, but I leave an adaptor with the spring clip removed permanently fixed, so it's as easy as a bayonet lens.I especially like the third with the Tak 135. Hope it's not M42 as I don't get on with them well.
The poppies look a little blown (perhaps the tip of the osteospurmum too) on the saturated colour. I've had that before with red on acer leaves. I think the sensors have a weak spot for not metering reds quite right.
You're right about the reds on the K55 image, they area bit blown, but there's nothing blown on the second one. With reds you have to underexpose quite a lot to avoid any blown areas. The nice thing about the K55 though is that the reds are true, no magenta tints.
Regards
David
My laptop screen is deeply average. It was just the tip of the pointy out petal 10 o'clock. But I'm nit picking
I enter the occasional dead/dessicated spider/flower to club comps but they are never received well
I think dogs and vases are de rigueur.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 02/06/2014 - 09:55
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davidstorm wrote:
I wouldn't say that the Sigma 105 DG EX Macro is either 'clinical' or 'heavy', in fact quite the opposite. It is a lovely, subtle lens with smooth bokeh and great colour rendering. For flowers, I can't think of many AF lenses that would be better...
David, I did find tha Sigma quite a solid and weighty item - but my Canon fit was new back in 2001 - I wonder if the design has changed over time? In any case based on your recommendation I'll certainly consider it. It appears to be still an excellent quality / value macro option. I wouldn't say that the Sigma 105 DG EX Macro is either 'clinical' or 'heavy', in fact quite the opposite. It is a lovely, subtle lens with smooth bokeh and great colour rendering. For flowers, I can't think of many AF lenses that would be better...
Just out of interest anyone, where's the best online source for new extension tubes?
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 02/06/2014 - 10:48
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I've been right through this whole thread and listed every suggested item .... here's a list of every lens or tube etc mentioned, without duplications : ....
Extension Tubes Kenko Telelpus x2 Macro Converter Raynox Macro Adaptor
49mm to K Reversing Ring +5 Achromatic Close up
Sigma 50mm f2.8 Sigma 105mm f2.8 Tamron 70 / 90
Sigma 90mm Kiron 105mm Vivitar 55 / 90
Pentax A50mm 1.7 Pentax 100 f2.8 macro Pentax K55 f1.8 . f2.0
Cosina 100mm f3.5 Vivitar 100mm f3.5 Pentax F 35-70
Pentax 50mm f4.0 macro Sigma 70mm DG macro FA 50 f1.7
Vivitar 135 close focus Pentax f 35-70
Sigma 70-300 macro DA ltd 35mm macro DA 16-45
Sigma 55mm f1.8 Adaptall SP90 Adaptall SP35-80
A great selection. I've got my research to do now. I might start by looking into the Kenko Teleplus Conveter, plus a new prime macro, or even one of the suggested short zooms. Plenty to get on with. Thanks again to all who have contributed such excellent advice.
Extension Tubes Kenko Telelpus x2 Macro Converter Raynox Macro Adaptor
49mm to K Reversing Ring +5 Achromatic Close up
Sigma 50mm f2.8 Sigma 105mm f2.8 Tamron 70 / 90
Sigma 90mm Kiron 105mm Vivitar 55 / 90
Pentax A50mm 1.7 Pentax 100 f2.8 macro Pentax K55 f1.8 . f2.0
Cosina 100mm f3.5 Vivitar 100mm f3.5 Pentax F 35-70
Pentax 50mm f4.0 macro Sigma 70mm DG macro FA 50 f1.7
Vivitar 135 close focus Pentax f 35-70
Sigma 70-300 macro DA ltd 35mm macro DA 16-45
Sigma 55mm f1.8 Adaptall SP90 Adaptall SP35-80
A great selection. I've got my research to do now. I might start by looking into the Kenko Teleplus Conveter, plus a new prime macro, or even one of the suggested short zooms. Plenty to get on with. Thanks again to all who have contributed such excellent advice.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 02/06/2014 - 10:53
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McGregNi wrote:
If I'd read it right from earlier, Zooms are the avoided with tubes?
I don't see any reason to avoid using a zoom with tubes. The tubes just move the lens away from the body, thus allowing the point of closest focus to be closer than without the tubes. If I'd read it right from earlier, Zooms are the avoided with tubes?
Closer subject = bigger image, that's all.
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
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Posted 02/06/2014 - 10:57
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Ooo, ooo, ooo....
Here's what you want.
Forget the TC, but it's the right tubes. You'll just have to scratch a bit of paint off.
Blimey, or these, without the TC...
... you wait for hours, and then two come along at once.
Here's what you want.
Forget the TC, but it's the right tubes. You'll just have to scratch a bit of paint off.
Blimey, or these, without the TC...
... you wait for hours, and then two come along at once.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Posted 02/06/2014 - 14:56
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I think that might be for a whole new thread there !. In my case at least, my primes offer better IQ generally, so I would imagine that would translate to better IQ also with tubes. Although the Pentax M 75-150 has been referred to here as very good with tubes, so I will be trying that for sure.
I may try and get a better standard zoom as I only have the 18-55WR - very good for general walkabout shooting but not really for critical stuff.
I may try and get a better standard zoom as I only have the 18-55WR - very good for general walkabout shooting but not really for critical stuff.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 02/06/2014 - 15:24
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So, in answer to your own poll,
Neither, I'm getting expensive fresh air filled photon blockers.
Neither, I'm getting expensive fresh air filled photon blockers.
Lurking is shirking.!
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4934 posts
15 years
Sheffield,
England
Some of the old glass, as already mentioned, has a lovely way of rendering flower images, the K55 F1.8, the SMC Takumar 135 F3.5, both of which work great on tubes, but MF only.
Regards
David
Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs