My first 'event'

It's a fair question David. I think the answer is in two parts. Admittedly outdoors we could use a longer lens for candids, but they tend to look remote, simply because they are shot from a distance. A candid shot closer with a shorter lens can look more intimate as it gets close to the subject, the photographer becomes involved with the ongoing action rather than a distant observer.

Indoors, I would find the 55-300mm far too long. The minimum focus distance would be too far away for the relatively close conditions. I would use a 35mm f/2.4 or maybe 50mm f/1.8 if low cost was required. They are great lenses and not expensive. With the K-3 the 50mm is a "75mm equivalent", which is a short telephoto. Those two focal lengths, 35mm (52.5mm) and 50mm (75mm) would be more than enough for candids. For small groups something wider might be helpful, but they would do. Then a wider aperture of maybe f2.8 or f/4 could be used and the risk of camera shake vastly reduced.

There are obviously other approaches, but that works for me.

Paul only said he might treat it similar to a small wedding reception. But it isn't a wedding reception so that approach could be wrong!
At the end of the day it's Paul's decision, others here have only expressed their views because Paul asked for them. I'm in the keep it simple camp.

We live in a democracy and we all have our own opinions, we all think our own are valid!

I have no issues with anyone putting an opposing view, but I still stand by mine, I always try to offer advice that may be useful. Sorry to Paul if I've put in too much. I once did a shoot for friends (FOC) and didn't take enough care planning it beforehand. The results were disappointing, both for me and the people who had asked me to shoot the images, I learned a lesson from that. We have a saying at work, but there are some rude words in it, it contains lots of words starting with the letter 'P' and basically means that poor planning often brings poor results.

Cheers, David

I'd agree it needs planning and doing that should suggest the correct equipment required (and what's not required to avoid being bogged down by surplus items.)
I'd have a word with the GF and get his feelings on it (I mean Paul, not you David ) After all he's the one who has 'contracted' Paul to take the photos. When one does a wedding there's a virtual check list of the group shots required but I can't see how that would apply to a family party (that's not to say someone else may see this differently.) But if Paul tries organising everyone and people don't want organising he could find he's hitting his head against the proverbial, hence the incognito approach may work better allowing Paul to enjoy the occasion rather than be potentially everyone's worst enemy by being a b***** nuisance! I reckon that conversation with his GF is essential rather than with us here to see which he feels is the best approach.

Regarding the use of flash, or not .... the rule goes something like this : use flash if you know how to do it, don't use it if you don't !!

The problem of course that we all face is how to get to the point of knowing how to use it .... and its not just about using it generally, its about applying techniques and gaining control over the lighting in a particular kind of setting and situation. Obviously with all the dealing with people going on, the interactions etc,, the last thing you want is to have your eyes buried in the LCD and struggling with loads of settings on the flash and camera.

It really is about getting practice in similar types of environments .... I feel comfortable handling flash in close situations (like the macro and flowers stuff), and in domestic rooms, where I know my equipment is powerful enough and I am familiar with the various surfaces to bounce off. But I wouldn't attempt an event with flash in a very big room where I'm not experienced or not familiar, plus I'd need to be using higher ISOs than my camera is really good enough for. So before I became an event photographer some upgrades of both equipment and experience would be needed!

However there are things to practice at home, and then you can apply the same principles but on a 'larger scale' .... The best flash lighting with on-camera work comes from sideways bounce, reflected off a bright coloured wall (white or cream ideally), giving a directional look to the light, with a bright and shadow side to the faces. This effect is enhanced by using a 'flag' type modifier to prevent any light direct front light hitting the faces. This technique is a power hog though, so in larger rooms and where the people are more than a few feet away from the walls you'll be looking at working at ISO 800 or 1600. This is good because it will allow ambient light in as well to mix with the flash on the subjects.

So you can practice this at home with a dolls head or teddy bear, and then if you get a chance go to the venue or somewhere similar and try it out on a 'larger scale' at higher ISOs to make sure your settings are good and the flash power is adequate. But you have to be responsive and adapt to each particular location for each shot .... the angles and walls will be different every time you move around the room. Here's a couple of links to threads on PU where I have used this technique of flagged flash and mixing ambient with flash light indoors .... one in a close domestic situation, the other in a Pub .....

link

link

Whatever you do, enjoy it and get into the thick of it! If its not the time to try out flash use, then practice a bit and be ready for the next event.

Thanks again everyone, I probably wont use the 55-300 and I plan to use the flash gun some more over the coming months to practice with it, but at the moment I probably wont use it for this event.

Most people there are used to me always having my 'big' camera with me and sticking it in their face so I'm not too worried about that. My wedding photographer from last year was using a 35mm lens with a flash gun on top of his camera and he produced some really nice results with that setup - granted he knew what he was doing I assume!

At the moment I'm thinking of using the 17-50 f2.8 on the K3ii and putting the 50mm f1.8 on the K-x and either using it as a second camera or giving it to my younger brother to use as he's shown some talent with a camera in the past.