Macro photography question
Posted 18/11/2010 - 09:37
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MF is usually better for Macro shots. The subject is
usually quite large in the viewfinder and you should be
able to see exactly where the focus is.
For flat objects like coins, stamps etc. AF should
be OK.
usually quite large in the viewfinder and you should be
able to see exactly where the focus is.
For flat objects like coins, stamps etc. AF should
be OK.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 18/11/2010 - 09:41 - Helpful Comment
Link
I'm no expert but I find that when using my DFA100 I invariably have to focus manually. I might use auto focus to get roughly in right place but then go to manual focus to make the final adjustment.
I think there are two reasons for this. Firstly, for most of my macro shots, I am using a tripod and the camera is fixed so often there is not an auto focus point exactly where I want to focus and secondly the depth of field is small for close-up shots and I have to tweak the focus to get the DOF spread where I want it.
I think the DFA100 is a great lens. It is becoming one of my most used lenses and seems to be the lens that wins competitions for me . It has a very sensitive manual focus adjustment and once you are happy with the focus point you can lock it so you don't accidentally shift it when taking the shot.
Glyn
I think there are two reasons for this. Firstly, for most of my macro shots, I am using a tripod and the camera is fixed so often there is not an auto focus point exactly where I want to focus and secondly the depth of field is small for close-up shots and I have to tweak the focus to get the DOF spread where I want it.
I think the DFA100 is a great lens. It is becoming one of my most used lenses and seems to be the lens that wins competitions for me . It has a very sensitive manual focus adjustment and once you are happy with the focus point you can lock it so you don't accidentally shift it when taking the shot.
Glyn
Posted 18/11/2010 - 11:54 - Helpful Comment
Link
Algi's and Glyns comments cover the main points but it is important to remember the raw visual data from the eye is subject to a massive amount of processing in the visual cortex before being routed to the part of the brain that then makes sense of what we are looking at in the viewfinder and defines what we perceive as the critical point of focus in the field of view. By contrast, the AF sensor and associated algorithms that are used 'in camera' to define 'correct focus' are primitive in the extreme; even in the best currently available cameras. Most of the time, as we all know, this is rarely a cause for concern, but it becomes significant when when approaching 1:1 and greater because the depth of field is frequently less than or equal to a couple of mm; especially when one considers that all current AF systems (tin hat on in anticipation of a barrage of 'corrections') are stepping and not step-less, as I assume remains the case when focusing manually.
Many posts on this forum, and on others, cover the issue of focus calibration and the fact that, even on lenses not intended for macro photography, adjustment is often required to ensure accurate focus (manual and AF) and this may be another factor that you need to consider.
Penultimately, I, and others, have found that eye cup magnifiers, even when the magnification ratio is quite modest: e.g. the Pentax O-ME53, can make accurate manual focusing much less 'hit and miss'. Yet others combine one of these with a compatible, third-part focusing screen (e.g. from the KatzEye range) but, despite my deteriorating eyesight, I have not found this necessary.
Finally (honest!) have you eliminated the possibility that what you perceive as 'out of focus' is in fact blur caused by excessive camera shake/'mirror-slap'?
Hope at least some of this adds to the excellent advice given in the earlier and more succinct posts of others
Jon
Many posts on this forum, and on others, cover the issue of focus calibration and the fact that, even on lenses not intended for macro photography, adjustment is often required to ensure accurate focus (manual and AF) and this may be another factor that you need to consider.
Penultimately, I, and others, have found that eye cup magnifiers, even when the magnification ratio is quite modest: e.g. the Pentax O-ME53, can make accurate manual focusing much less 'hit and miss'. Yet others combine one of these with a compatible, third-part focusing screen (e.g. from the KatzEye range) but, despite my deteriorating eyesight, I have not found this necessary.
Finally (honest!) have you eliminated the possibility that what you perceive as 'out of focus' is in fact blur caused by excessive camera shake/'mirror-slap'?
Hope at least some of this adds to the excellent advice given in the earlier and more succinct posts of others
Jon
Posted 18/11/2010 - 12:31
Link
Just to add a little more I find for macro shots that I usually have to stop down quite a way to achieve a good DOF (possibly reducing the resolution but is not something I have noticed on the DFA100).
I find the small apertures mean that the optical preview is too dark to use with my eyesight. I therefore invariably take a few test shots which I view magnified and pan around on the rear screen to check the focus & DOF. Of course this only works when shooting static objects . I also have the rear wheel on the camera set to start at a 4x magnification when viewing on the rear screen which speeds this up a bit.
Glyn
I find the small apertures mean that the optical preview is too dark to use with my eyesight. I therefore invariably take a few test shots which I view magnified and pan around on the rear screen to check the focus & DOF. Of course this only works when shooting static objects . I also have the rear wheel on the camera set to start at a 4x magnification when viewing on the rear screen which speeds this up a bit.
Glyn
Posted 18/11/2010 - 13:38
Link
Most macro lenses start to fall off at about f/11 under high
contrast lighting, but you can usually get away with f/16 - f/22
under flash.
With poor low contrast lighting there isn't as much resolution
and it doesn't fall off very quickly. The 90mm Tamron f/2.5 looks
about the best lens to use at f/16 under low contrast lighting
(source AP Test) because it's almost a level line from f/8 to f/16
which was the smallest aperture in the test. Good lighting is
preferable for macros.
contrast lighting, but you can usually get away with f/16 - f/22
under flash.
With poor low contrast lighting there isn't as much resolution
and it doesn't fall off very quickly. The 90mm Tamron f/2.5 looks
about the best lens to use at f/16 under low contrast lighting
(source AP Test) because it's almost a level line from f/8 to f/16
which was the smallest aperture in the test. Good lighting is
preferable for macros.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 18/11/2010 - 14:04
Link
I stick the camera on around f10/f14, extend the lens all the way out (manual focus) and then move the camera back/forward until I have focus. Obviously if the subject is larger then I have to wind the lens in slightly but I normally do macro at full magnification if possible.
Posted 18/11/2010 - 15:23
Link
OK, the mist is moving, what is considered the best Sigma or Pentax, I have looked at reviews, the Sigma has (according to others) noisy AF, The Pentax needs stopping down & no focus limit switch.
Anybody using the Sigma 105mm F2.8 for macro
Regards
Anybody using the Sigma 105mm F2.8 for macro
Regards
Colin
“Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could do only a little.”
Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)
[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/K-7userbar-red.jpg[/IMG]
“Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could do only a little.”
Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)
[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/K-7userbar-red.jpg[/IMG]
Posted 18/11/2010 - 15:41 - Helpful Comment
Link
IMO there is no such thing as a bad macro lens.
Tamron 90mm, Sigma 105mm, Pentax D-FA 100mm are all very good lenses.
WIth regard to the Sigma vs Pentax question, both very sharp, Sigma is better made imo but Pentax is lighter and more compact.
Tamron 90mm, Sigma 105mm, Pentax D-FA 100mm are all very good lenses.
WIth regard to the Sigma vs Pentax question, both very sharp, Sigma is better made imo but Pentax is lighter and more compact.
Posted 18/11/2010 - 18:43
Link
See the Green Painter's been in again!:
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 18/11/2010 - 18:54
Link
Mike-P wrote:
IMO there is no such thing as a bad macro lens.
You've not met 'macro' zooms then? IMO there is no such thing as a bad macro lens.
Not that I've ever met one that actually meets the technical definition of macro (1:1 or better reproduction on the film/sensor)
I don't mean to imply 'macro' zooms are all bad...
Mike
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
.
Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
Far to many tele-converters, adapters, project parts & extension tubes etc.
.[size=11:].Flickr• WPF• Panoramio
Posted 18/11/2010 - 19:01
Link
dougf8 wrote:
Algae, please stay on topic.
If your a mod Doug can you please delete all my posts in thisAlgae, please stay on topic.
thread or better still delete all the ones not 'painted green'
because they were not regarded as helpful.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 18/11/2010 - 19:03
Link
Algernon wrote:
thread or better still delete all the ones not 'painted green'
because they were not regarded as helpful.
I thought my spelling of your name might indicate the seriousness of my post
dougf8 wrote:
Algae, please stay on topic.
If your a mod Doug can you please delete all my posts in thisAlgae, please stay on topic.
thread or better still delete all the ones not 'painted green'
because they were not regarded as helpful.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 18/11/2010 - 19:43
Link
TBH, I don't find a focus limit a problem when you have a focus lock. Isn't there one of these on the D-FA100? There is on the 50....
Bret
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
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1384 posts
18 years
Bedford
If you have a macro lens with auto focus (DFA 100mm for example) do you take the shot using the AF completely, or what is the technique that you use.
I struggle with manual focus, and having sold my manual kit I am looking at a S/H Sigma or a new Pentax (same price)
Regards
“Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could do only a little.”
Edmund Burke (1729 – 1797)
[IMG]http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad254/weldingblues/K-7userbar-red.jpg[/IMG]